Do you really need pine rosin to make beeswax wraps?

We’re all doing beeswax wraps, but do you ever wonder if that mysterious ingredient, pine rosin, is essential? I set out to find out. 

Anatomy of a beeswax wrap

Beeswax wraps at their most basic are just beeswax infused cloth. The wax gives the fabric a water resistant coating which helps keep food fresh while still letting it breathe. Wraps can be used to store halves of fruit and veg, cover bowls, insulate rising bread dough, wrap up sandwiches, and so on. In short, anytime you might have once used plastic cling wrap or a ziploc bag.

The easiest way to make beeswax wraps is with wax only

The simplest, can’t-go-wrong recipe is beeswax grated over a cloth, melted in the oven on low heat. That’s it – you don’t need an actual recipe do you?? The wax melts and seeps into all areas of the cloth. If you see any dry patches, add a shaving or two of wax.

It will be flimsy and floppy when just out of the oven, but once it cools it will become hard yet pliable. This style of wrap will not have the tackiness of the versions you’ve probably seen at the farmers market or in shops, but it’ll be easy to clean with a texture that works perfectly for wrapping around full loaves of bread, or cookies.

An early prototype.

I had been making my wraps this way for some time, but I found they didn’t work well in all situations. They don’t self-adhere, so they don’t work as well when you want to cover the end of a half a pumpkin for example. To compensate, I’d add a rubber band around something I’d wrapped up. No biggie, but I was curious about how much better I could make these by using the same ingredients as the commercially sold varieties. The real catalyst was me promising my girlfriends I would teach them how to make their own beeswax wraps. I wanted them to be really happy with the results.

Add tackiness to your wraps with pine rosin

If you absolutely must have that more tacky feeling of store bought wraps, the ingredient you need is pine rosin, which is tree sap. It also goes by pine resin, colophony or Greek pitch. It’s not that readily available in shops, but you can find it online. I bought a large bag to share with friends.

After experimenting with pine rosin added to the formula, I can confirm that it achieves a different result than beeswax only. It makes the wraps behave more closely to plastic cling wrap, which is what most people are trying to find a replacement for.

Which formula you choose depends on how you want to use your wraps, and whether you can find some pine rosin, which can be challenging depending on where you live. Pine rosin is also used in carpentry, art, and for musical instruments, but if you’re buying from a specialty shop, be sure to inquire whether it’s food safe.

Beeswax only wraps are best for beginners who want a simple to make versatile wrap. Make them in a large enough size to fully enclose your food. I use these to wrap entire loaves of bread and to pack snacks to take on the go.

Beeswax wraps with pine rosin are best for recovering plastic cling wrap addicts.

They can be made in relatively small dimensions and still be useful since they will adhere to themselves or the hard surface of the food you’re wrapping. Making them is a more involved process, and you will need more ingredients and equipment.

How to make beeswax wraps with pine rosin

Set up your fabric: Place your washed and dried fabric onto a baking sheet covered with a piece of compostable parchment paper (I have If You Care). You can reuse the sheet each time. I don’t bother with the parchment for wax only wraps, but pine rosin is very sticky. Preheat your oven on medium low – around 150 Celsius.

Melt the mixture using a double boiler: A double boiler is simply a metal or glass bowl placed on top of a pot of hot water, as pictured below. The metal bowl is an op shop find I reserve for this purpose. I use this method to avoid ruining my cooking pots and to have greater control over the heat of the ingredients.

Combine the beeswax, pine rosin and jojoba in a double boiler on the stovetop to melt, then stir to combine (proportions are noted below in the ingredients section). It could take a little time depending on how large your chunks of wax and rosin are. If your rosin is a fine powder, avoid inhaling the small particles.

Infuse the fabric: Drip or paint the mixture onto the fabric, then place in the oven for a few minutes on low heat. I’ve experimented with dipping the cloth directly into the bowl, but the coating was too heavy, and I ended up having to redistribute the wax mixture to additional pieces of fabric to soak up the excess. Some people prefer to place the fabric between two sheets of parchment and used a hot iron to melt.

If my fabric is larger than your baking sheet, I just fold it over on itself. The mixture will permeate and distribute through the fabric when heated in the oven.

A reader tip is to use the double boiler method, then pour into moulds and let set. When cooled, these harden and can be grated like beeswax blocks. Very handy to have on hand for re-waxing and a good idea for any excess mixture you’ve prepared.

beeswax wraps silicone

Hang the waxed fabric to cool: Remove the fabric from the oven. Check that the wax has saturated the fabric evenly and there are no dry patches. If there are, add more of the mixture and reheat. Remove from the oven and drape over a drying rack to let cool, which only only takes a few seconds.

Ingredients for beeswax wraps with pine rosin

Here’s what I approximately use to infuse one 25cm square cloth – bit of an inexact science though! I got to this measure by making a larger batch and dividing by the overall square centimetre-age of fabric.

  • 40g beeswax
  • 40g pine rosin
  • 10g jojoba oil

This mixture is essentially a pine salve, which is a traditional antibacterial ointment (and survivalist favourite), so use any leftover on your hands and elbows.

If you don’t have rosin, it’s not the end of the world and there is another way to achieve some extra tackiness – just use oil and wax, melted to combine using the above method. Adding a touch of oil helps soften and leverage the beeswax’s subtle tackiness.

I make these for myself and friends, not commercially, so this is simply what worked for me. In future I might experiment and re-wax mine with a different formula by using more oil and less rosin, seeing as the latter seems to be a bit of a trick to track down for many people. Have a read of the comments as many readers have helpfully shared what’s worked for them.

Tips for choosing the right fabric

  • 100% cotton fabric, preferably organic. Lightweight and tightly woven, no stretch. A blended fabric *might* work, but watch out for heating up polyester or acrylics, since these are made of plastic fibres, and I doubt the fumes would be good for you.
  • Patterned or darker coloured fabrics help disguise any marks left by food drips and drops. Whatever you do, don’t go with white!
  • Beeswax usually has a yellowish cast – this will colour your fabric, so choose one that won’t clash.

Care and use of your beeswax wraps

  • They’re not designed to be used with hot or very drippy foods.
  • The warmth of your hand on the wraps is what allows them to shape around things. It’s easiest when they’re at room temperature.
  • Wash with warm soapy water, not hot.
  • Don’t wrap raw meat.
  • Please don’t toss the cloth when the wax wears off in six months to a year. Creased and otherwise worn looking cloths can be re-waxed indefinitely at home, and reuse is the whole point, isn’t it?

Update: please have a read of the comments below. Many readers from around the world have contributed wonderful tips and tricks that may help you with sourcing, substitutions, troubleshooting and determining recipe proportions.

348 thoughts on “Do you really need pine rosin to make beeswax wraps?

  1. Hi there,
    Thanks for your post. It’s very helpful. I was wondering (because I can’t seem to find any valuable answers) if you know whether it is actually safe to have the pine rosin come in contact with food when you wrap an apple for example. I have seen that most of the places who sell it say it’s for external use only and not food safe. So it does make me wonder…. On the other hand, if it is safe, I’d rather include it in my recipe.
    Kind regards, Astrid

    1. Hi Astrid,

      the supplier I purchased from had a specific note in the product description indicating that this pine rosin was popularly used in beeswax wraps. I have not had any acute poisonings, nor have I ever hear of this being the case with any commercially sold wraps. I have come across stories where people share that they’ve used pine rosin as part of a natural chewing gum. I would contact the supplier you’re considering buying from to ask for more detail. They may be able to tell you more about the supply chain and whether they are aware of any contaminants that make it unsuitable. I wouldn’t consider it a blanket truth about the safety of pine rosin – it’s more likely something to do with how this supplier is sourcing.

      I understand that some people may get a rash from touching pine rosin and that you definitely don’t want to inhale the dust (mine came mostly as chunks). Probably more relevant to woodworkers.

      I hope that helps : )

  2. Hi,
    Thanks for your research and recipes for waxed wraps! I have made beeswax wraps before, and yes had the same problem as you mentioned- not tacky. I am happy to use these, however would like some tacky ones too. I have been researching that pine resin/ rosin is not great against food? not food grade, and can leave the taste on porous food. Is this your experience?

    1. Hi Kate,

      If you’ve found anything to suggest pine rosin is unsafe against food I’d be as curious as you to learn more. I’ve not come across anything in my research that suggests so. I also haven’t found any additional flavouring imparted into my food. However, sensitivities differ from person to person, so if you’ve ever been accused of having a sensitive sense of smell or taste (do you taste bitterness where others don’t? you might be a supertaster), then perhaps the pine scent would be too much.

      Cheers, Liz

        1. Yes, I’ve seen that one, but I agree it’s fairly vague. I don’t believe the wraps get that hot or shed enough rosin to be a danger 🙂

          1. Hi, it is possible to buy food grade rosin to be safe. Rosin sold in most comercial outlets such as Bunnings is not food grade. Once incorporate into the cloth it should become relatively stable anyway unless heated to melting point..

  3. Hi Liz,

    This process is so much better than others I’ve tried, so thank you! Did you have any issues with the pine resin not fully melting/combining? Mine formed a sticky glob that just wouldn’t melt.


    1. Hi Linz – I had the same problem of the pine resin not incorporating into the beeswax – it’s almost like trying to mix oil and water – even with high heat and waiting for hours! – still the blob remains! In such a case perhaps the percentage is too high (Liz suggested 1:1) – if less pine resin, the incorporation will improve. I used only 12.5% of pinon pine resin and the tackiness is sufficient (for me!). I will try and increase it to 25% and see if it will incorporate into the beeswax or not. Another important point is the species of the pine – which ones are safe and which ones are not? Most suppliers of pine resin don’t even indicate the species. I dip my fabrics into the pot of wax and then put it in-between 2 sheets of tracing paper – and iron. This way your wraps are nice and smooth and the excess wax comes out from all sides. The excess wax are then removed easily from the paper and put back into the pot.

      1. I harvested my own lob-lolly pine resin about three weeks ago, and after melting it down in a soup can and then straining the debris, I poured the “clean” resin into another soup can, where it hardened in one big chunk. Yesterday I made beeswax wraps (a first for me). I used an ice pick to chop away at the resin in the soup can, poured the hard granules into a thick zip lock bag, and used the side of a meat mallet to crush the bigger bits.

        Using 2 parts beeswax, 1 part resin mix, I sprinkled the dry ingredients over my pre-cut cloth, added several drops of jojoba oil, then I ironed the cloth between two pieces of parchment paper. Although I love this process because it’s not messy, my cloths are not as tacky or sticky as a cloth I purchased commercially. I want to experiment with increasing the level of pine resin. I need to collect more of it since I used all I had!

      2. I harvested my own lob-lolly pine resin about three weeks ago, and after melting it down in a soup can and then straining the debris, I poured the “clean” resin into another soup can, where it hardened in one big chunk. Yesterday I made beeswax wraps (a first for me). I used an ice pick to chop away at the resin in the soup can, poured the hard granules into a thick zip lock bag, and used the side of a meat mallet to crush the bigger bits.

        Using 2 parts beeswax, 1 part resin mix, I sprinkled the dry ingredients over my pre-cut cloth, added several drops of jojoba oil, then I ironed the cloth between two pieces of parchment paper. Although I love this process because it’s not messy, my cloths are not as tacky or sticky as a cloth I purchased commercially. I want to experiment with increasing the level of pine resin. I need to collect more of it since I used all I had!

  4. Hi Linz,

    When I did a large batch with friends I remember lots of stirring and waiting and stirring and waiting. The rosin I had was a mix of smaller debris and big chunks. And you’re so right – if it’s not fully melted it’s not going to mix well with the wax. All I could suggest is a bit more time on the double boiler and/or increasing the heat a bit. Good luck 🙂


  5. Hello!
    I have just made some of these wraps (without the rosin). However they crack on the folds….. What am I doing wrong? Do they need more wax? they are dripping when I get them out of the oven. Has anybody experience this? Thanks!

    1. Hi Claudia,

      Some very light creasing is normal, but it sounds like you might have used too much wax for the amount of fabric based on your description of it dripping. To much wax will lead to cracking once it’s cooled and being used (I’ve done this). Remember, you don’t need a thick coat of wax, just enough to permeate. You can probably rectify this fairly easily by reheating the wrap and placing another piece of fabric on top to absorb the excess. Try that and see how you go.


  6. As an artist who paints with encaustic, I already have beeswax from our hives. I ordered and received organic golden Jojoba oil. Now my only question is if my bag of Utrecht Oil Medium Damar Crystals are pure enough to use. The bag says they are “derived from trees growing in the Malay states and in the East Indies.” I wanted to know if anything else is compounded into them. (They look like the chunks you show.) So I wrote to Utrecht with that question. I received a reply from DickBlick art supplies saying “Enkaustikos Damar Resin has been FDA approved for coating fruit and vegetable crates during shipment.” I wrote back saying what I had was from Utrecht. They then wrote back saying “Utrecht Damar Crystals do not have FDA accreditation for food contact and cannot be recommended for your use.” This surprised me as I assumed all pine resin was just that with nothing else added. I don’t want to buy something that I might already have. Any thoughts on this? Thanks!

  7. Hi Liz,

    I am from South Africa and have searched the internet for pine rosin with little success. Amazon does not ship this particular product to SA (and I think the cost would be astronomical in any case!). What type of stores would normally sell pine rosin?

    By the way, super informative post!


    1. Hi Ilana,

      I’m so glad you’re finding it useful. In terms of tracking down pine rosin, Some leads might be soap making shops, art stores, music and woodworking supply. Do you have pine trees in SA at all? You could try collecting sap and purifying it yourself – looks like a messy business though! Remember that it has a bunch of sneaky names, so it might be hiding as colophony or greek pitch where you are. Good luck.


      1. This is in reply to Neranza Noel Blount’s comment that
        “The Enkaustikos Damar Resin has been FDA approved for coating fruit and vegetable crates during shipment.”.
        They do state this however, I called up Enkaustikos and enquired about their Damar Resin and they said that it is not food grade safe for food wraps as their product is unfiltered and you can do it but have to use a very, very high temperature, filtering system before you can get it to the food grade state. So I am also on the hunt for food safe Damar Resin.
        Thank you

    2. Ilana, did you find the pine rosin? I’m in South Africa too and can’t find it either. It is more than a year later since you posted, so I hope you found it and can tell me where to buy it too.

      1. Hi Yolanda, I am also from SA. I found some Damar resin at Deckle edge in Woodstock, Cape Town. I have no idea if it is food grade though. Also not the cheapest. R300 for 250gr.
        Have you found any since your post in 2019?

    3. Try a Ballet Pointe shoe dance supply store. Resin is used to tack up toes on pointe shoes for performing on stage and getting ‘grip’.

  8. Very interesting article. I’m a fan of beeswax wraps, but I didn’t know they had more than wax. It so happens that I am allergic to pine resin, so I only use mine to cover bowls, and still I do it very rarely because touching it with my hands might cause a bad reaction. Do you know if there’s another substance that could be added to do the same effect (I would like to try and make some of my own)?

    1. Hi Patricia,

      I’m not sure what else would give that tacky feeling other than simply another type of tree sap. Keep in mind, the tacky effect won’t last forever even with the resin, so I would recommend trying the beeswax only if you want to give these a whirl. They still work great : )

    2. Hi Patricia-
      I’ve read a couple articles that mention using propolis in the beeswax wraps (it’s like bee’s glue- they make it to seal up their hives) but I’m not sure if the bees make it using tree sap, sooo it might not work for you…further research perhaps?

    3. Patricia, In my research this evening, I saw that Amazon sells a synthetic pine rosin that is supposed to be hypoallergenic. I don’t know if it is considered food safe, but it would be worth looking into.

  9. Is it better to buy the powdered rosin perhaps? I am just not sure how to melt the beeswax and the pine rosin if I get the chunks of rosin? I don’t have a double boiler …. do I mix the two with the jojoba oil and just heat at a low temperature altogether in a pot or do I boil them both or separate? Thank you.

    1. Hi Shirley,

      Any big chunks will still eventually melt, it just takes some time and stirring, but yes, if you got a powder it would probably melt much quicker. You would want to combine wax, rosin and jojoba in the same vessel. The pine rosin is super sticky so I wouldn’t put this directly in a pot. I don’t have a true double boiler either so I just put a metal bowl (a glass bowl could also work) over a pot of boiling water. I keep this bowl for crafts and got it cheap at the thrift shop – is that a possibility for you to do?


    2. I have been making wraps for about 12 months with these ingredients. I put my rosin chunks in a tough paper bag and pound with either the end of my wooden rolling pin or my meat tenderizer hammer. It crushes it enough to help it melt quicker. I use old Moccona coffee jars in simmering water in my electric frypan. I put a tea towel in the bottom to stop the rattling. I stir them occasionally until it’s all melted together. The rosin is sometimes still a bit grainy in the bottom of the jar but I don’t use those last dregs. I usually have a day when I melt and pour unto silicon moulds so I have the waxing prep all done. Then I just have to melt my blocks as I need them and I think this makes the whole process a little quicker. Good luck.

      1. Really, what can’t an old Moccona jar accomplish?

        Thanks for sharing your method Glenys. I have also come to appreciate the silicon mold method 🙂

    3. When I researched making beeswax wraps, I found there are many ways to melt the wax and resin and most of them were messy and very hard to clean up. I ended up using the oven method. I cover a baking sheet in aluminum foil, place a piece of cloth on it and put a few drops of jojoba oil on it. I take powdered resin and distribute it as evenly as I can. I then take my hand and rub the resin until it is evenly distributed over the cloth, making sure there are no clumps of powder. Last, I distribute the beeswax evenly over the top and put it in the oven. After everything has melted, I use a foam brush to make sure everything is evenly distributed and to brush any excess off to the side. There is no mess to clean up, just close up the bags and put them away and throw out the foil. If you have the lump form of resin, a mortar and pestle will powder it nicely.

    1. Hi Sheryl, I’ve never tried it. I suppose it’s all just tree sap, but then again, plants can be poisonous! Don’t know what to suggest :/ Also, seems like Frankincense resin might be even more obscure to track down?

      1. Thanks for you input. Frankincense is edible and is often infused in oil. I like the Frankincense because the Apothecary store where I live stocks it. Thanks

  10. I posted a question several weeks ago asking about food grade resin but I don’t see it in this feed. In the mean time I found my own answer which I’ll share here. As an artist who paints with encaustic and a beekeeper, I thought I had the two main ingredients and only had to order the jojoba oil (which I now use on my face too). Concerned about the food grade as any pot I use to make my encaustic mixture can never be used for food later, I did some research. My damar came from R&F who could not verify that it was food grade. However the other main encaustic supplier did! “The Enkaustikos Damar Resin has been FDA approved for coating fruit and vegetable crates during shipment.” So that is what I ordered and used. From painting experience allow me to share tips on melting that tough damar and then I’ll share my new first time experience of making these food wraps. First put the chunks of damar in a bag and pound it to a powder. Also when mixing it with your wax, do so under a vent and/or wear a face mask. You do not want to breathe in those fine crystals. It should melt at 200 degrees Fahrenheit which I did directly in a designated pot on my hot plate that I use for my encaustics. I have a surface thermometer to keep an eye on it. I normally melt the wax first and then add the damar powder which melts at a higher temperature (which is what gives the encaustic painting its durability but only 1/8th goes into my painting mixture). However another blog I read said to melt the damar first and then add the wax and finally the oil. I’ll try that next time. So after a half hour of vigilance and still not completely melted I increased the temp to 250F and then even to 300F not taking my eyes off of it for even a second. Note that the flash point (FIRE!!!) of wax is 400F which could be catastrophic. The 300F worked so then I quickly dipped my cloth pieces letting each drip off and quickly finished and turned off the heat. This left a coating too thick so I used an iron to transfer the excess to other undipped pieces. Done! I used cotton muslin that I tie dyed in pureed blueberry juice (we own a blueberry orchard so I had plenty in the freezer). It was interesting that some came out blue and some were shades of violet. One more tip I learned is that if your hands have a tacky feeling for handling these simply use hand lotion to relieve them. Thanks for your blog. I’m enjoying all your other tips too. Bee well!

    1. Hi Neranza,

      Thank you for posting this!

      I didn’t see your original question pop up, but I’d answered another similar. I have to say, I’m glad you did more research. Your background as an artist gives you a depth of material knowledge that I don’t have. So, ‘damar’ is a term for the large blocks of rosin?

      With regards to heating – I found that having one material already melted in the bowl of the double boiler seemed to help the other melt, because it envelopes the unmelted material and I would think heat from all sides might mean more heat energy without a higher temp? I’ll update the post with your caution not to inhale those crystals.

      Um, super jealous that you own a blueberry orchard…. : )


  11. Hi Liz,
    We all keep learning including me. So I just looked up and found this: “Dammar, also spelled damar, or dammer, is any of a variety of hard varnish resins obtained from coniferous and hardwood trees characteristic of Southeast and East Asia.” It’s tapped from the tree kind of like maple syrup without hurting the tree. I also keep my range vent on while heating the mixture which is advised when working with encaustics as you don’t want to breath the vapors either.

    Hi Claudia,
    As far as ratio, when I was researching, I found many recipes that varied so the one I tried and seems to work well is 640 grams beeswax, 500 grams resin, and 210 grams oil. (This is close to Liz’s recipe I see.) For my first batch I cut that down to 1/4 recipe which made me about a dozen 12″ x 12″ wraps and about a dozen 6″ x 6″ wraps. This was after I ironed the excess onto others. I’m making a second batch now as I write this melting the damar first. I’m holding it at 200 for now. We’ll see how it works. I actually ordered a pack of BeesWrap to see how theirs feel and after I ironed out the excess, mine feels like theirs – thin and pliable yet firm enough to do the job. I’ve been giving these out as gifts and most have not heard of them so I’m please to spread the knowledge. They are so cool!

    1. Hi Sarah,

      The jojoba adds pliability, since it’s a liquid at room temp, and the other ingredients will harden up. This helps to avoid cracking. I’m sure another oil could work, but I haven’t tried. if you do, let us know how you go.

      One suggestion would be to try one that’s similar to jojoba in texture. For example, the texture of coconut oil changes dramatically with heat, so I wouldn’t trust it in a wrap because it would be yo-yoing from solid to liquid in the Australian heat.


      1. Hi,
        I happen to have fractionated coconut oil in the house so I was contemplating using that in place of the jojoba, but I am researching if it would be comparable in function and purpose to jojoba since it is a liquid at room temperature and has a long shelf life. From what I have read, jojoba is actually a liquid wax. I need to research more or just give it a try, I guess.

          1. I’ve just started making these instead of buying them. I read you could use coconut oil in the wraps so because i was waiting for an order of jojoba oil i tried it. It works fine. I melted the wax and added a teaspoon of the oil.

  12. Final update follow up from my last comment. So when I tried melting only the resin first it didn’t work either. The bottom would be melted but the surface would still be smooth. I also still had to increase my heat to 300F. I see everyone using a double boiler so I’m curious what temp that produces. I’ll go back to melting the wax first and sprinkling in the resin pounded to a powder. Anyway, 1/2 recipe I posted above made me 17 large (14″ x 14″), 17 medium (10″ x 10) and 14 small (6″ x 6″). I thought I was not going to make anymore but I gave away so many, I’m going to make one more batch. This time I found online GOTS certified organic cotton muslin for about $8 a yard of 54″. Most places had it for $12 a yard. I’m also going to dye the fabric with organic yellow onion skins and just did the edges in blueberry juice. Thanks for all your helpful advice Liz!

  13. Hi Liz, on 3 October we chatted about me struggling to get hold of Pine Rosin in South Africa. I managed to get some, but the suppliers cannot confirm whether it is food grade. Do you perhaps know how this is determined and how I can check the quality?

    On another note, have you ever heard of Gum Arabic? Could this possibly be used as a replacement for Pine Rosin?

    Thank you,


    1. Hi Ilana.
      I’m also from SA looking for pine resin. Did you manage to get some food grade resin? Or did you give up the search ?


    2. Hi Ilana.
      I’m also from SA looking for pine resin. Did you manage to get some food grade resin? Or did you give up the search ?


      1. I managed to import some via but I’m dubious about using it as I’ve read conflicting reports on the safety of it. It also sounds like it adds an unnecessary degree of complexity as it has a higher melting point and sounds like a bit of an art to get the resin and wax combined.

  14. Hi Liz,
    The only resin I have found locally so far is in a dance store and is called “Rosin for Dancers”. It is in small golden chunks just like that pictured in the white bowl in your post. When I heated the rosin in a double boiler with the wax and oil, it initially melted, but even though I kept the water boiling, it soon formed dark taffy like lumps in the bottom of the pot. Seems to be the same problem that Linz had. Which supplier of resin did you use? Am I using the wrong brand of resin?

    1. Hi Jill,

      I ordered from Goldleaf here in Australia. It sounds like we’re working with the same or a very similar material. I could only guess that that the temp in some spots wasn’t hot enough to keep the pine rosin melted so it just reformed into the lump. When it cools, taffy-like is the perfect description of what happens : ) When it initially melts, did you stir to combine well with the other ingredients? That might be the trick to getting the texture right.


  15. Do you make a large batch of wax mixture and then a bunch of fabric squares one at a time? If so, how do you know how much of the mixture to drizzle onto each square?

  16. Hi Liz,

    I tried to leave a comment before, but maybe it didn’t go through!
    I was wondering about the amount to drizzle onto the fabric squares. You have an amount (grams) listed for one sheet. Do you make one batch of mix at a time? Or do you make a large batch of the wax and then do a bunch of sheets in a row? If you do multiples, what measurement do you use when you drizzle the wax on?


    1. Hi Shelly,

      Funny you should ask – in preparation for re-waxing my sheets (it’s coming up to that time again) I had that same thought. I think it might be a better process to make a bulk amount of the wax & rosin mixture, let it set it in moulds, and then grate and melt only as needed. In principle it seems smarter to do the double boiler step only the once! A block of pre-mix would make a great gift as well. It’s an inexact science on knowing how much to add to each square, but if I was to try this new method, I would try to distribute a light coating of shavings over the fabric. It’s best to err on the side of less and keep adding then to oversaturate the sheet. I’ll try to do an update to this post soon with a picture of how thinly to sprinkle – you can sort of get an idea from the image of the beeswax only wrap near the top of the post – but that’s not really a perfect example as in hindsight I see I took a picture of a clump :S

    1. I would think so, but would wait until you’ve worn through some of the wax coating through use. Otherwise you’ll just have too much mixture overall for the amount of fabric. Or you could plan to make another sheet at the same time to soak up some of the excess.

    1. Hi Sandra, bit of an update – I made a batch of wraps over the holidays for gifts and had this issue happen to me for the first time. Although I have no clear solution or understanding of why it happened, I do empathise. The rosin sort of balled up and turned dark brown like candied sugar. I tried to see if it would remelt, but without luck so I fished it out and added an eyeballed equivalent amount of pine rosin in to melt and that seemed to work. No idea what caused it, as it’s still all from the same original batch of rosin.

      1. Same thing happened to me today, except removing the rosin and trying again didn’t work either. Tried both mixing with wax and oil and spreading directly on cloth and baking as well as melting all in a double boiler. It’s rosin I bought last year and had no issues with. Surely rosin doesn’t go off that quickly? Anyway, I was glad to find this thread to know that I’m not the only one!

      2. Wondering if anyone is still watching this thread! The first time I used the powdered pine rosin it worked beautifully. But every time since it just balls up and won’t melt. I started sprinkling it on the sheets but don’t like the end product as well. Sure wish I could figure it out!

        1. I’m following this thread because I’m making wraps for Christmas presents. I followed a recipe from another site which said to melt the rosin first. I did this in a double boiler and had a bally, taffy mess. I added the beeswax, and when it melted, I used 2 chopsticks with a scissor action to break up the rosin. It took some doing, but it eventually all melted and I had a homogenous liquid. I added the jojoba oil at this point and painted onto my fabric.

    2. Can confirm this is an issue for me with almost every online recipe. i gave up and dissolved the rosin in alcohol before adding it to my bees wax and it *FINALLY* worked. I’m just not sure how anyone gets the powdered rosin to not goop up and turn to taffy. Good luck.

      1. Just found your post! I was wondering about alcohol to solve and dissolve this problem with the rosin glooping up. Sure hope it’s going to work as nothing else has.

  17. I made this recipe today but used coconut oil. It worked perfectly, I used locally sourced beeswax and pine rosin I bought online from Ballina. I ended up with a lot of excess but will re-melt tomorrow and make more. The wraps are quite tacky but I think that once they’ve been used and washed a few times, that will wear off. I wrapped some bread in a wrap and left it for a few hours to see if it absorbed odour etc and it seemed fine. Thanks for a great recipe. Cheers, Renee

    1. That’s awesome Renee! Thank you for sharing your success. I’m really glad that worked out as coconut oil is more readily available than jojoba. I’ll try that too next time : )

    2. I have both jojoba and coconut at home but I don’t understand the purpose of the oil in the recipe – does it contribute to the tackiness? I can’t source any type of tree sap so all I have really is the beeswax (that was hard enough to come by)

  18. HI Liz,

    I was wondering from Goldleaf Australia, which product did you purchase?
    Colophony Rosin (Gum rosin) 500 grams
    Gum Damar 100 grams
    Gum Copal per 100 grams

    or should i be buying the food grade?
    Gum Arabic Powder 50 grams (food grade)
    there are a few options as well as powders i was wondering if you knew which is the best one to use and least harmful for the product?

    any help would be great!

  19. Thanks Liz. The addition of resin helps the suppleness and tackiness of the wraps. I also find that the finer the cotton fabric (ie, lawn, voile) the better the result.

  20. Hi Everyone,

    I just went on the Goldleaf Factory site and there is one 5 star review for the Colophony Rosin and they saying this makes the best food wraps at the best price. They say 1part rosin to 8 parts beeswax but they also give a link to a recipe for the wraps which is more like 1 to 4.
    Here it is…

    Natural Food Wrap
    1 cup beeswax (chunked or pastilles)
    1/4 cup tree resin
    2 TBLS jojoba oil

    Hope that is helpful! I am going to be trying this for the first time as soon as the resin arrives.
    Spent ages looking for really nice fabric! 🙂

    1. Hi Karen, let us know how you go. I imagine that recipe, which has a lesser proportion of tree resin than mine, would still work out great. I might try it next time myself 🙂

  21. Hi I’m a violin builder and can maybe help a little with the resin questions. Gums are the water soluble exudates of trees and bushes. Resins are the non water soluble exudates of trees and bushes. Damar has different but similar properties to colophony or pine resin (mainly melting point). The rosin you can buy for playing string instruments often has metal salts added to it, so while the colophony, the main ingredient in rosin, should be safe itself, if there are any additives in the rosin it most probably won’t be safe ( the problem being that because rosin is sold for putting on a bow not eating they never list ingredients). Art supply places are more likely to have both damar and pine resin. Please note that many trees produce resins. It seems that this recipe is particularly calling for pine resin. Probably wise to stay away from anything called rosin.

    1. Hi Caridwen,

      Thanks for contributing your subject matter expertise. The plot thickens with this rosin/resin business.

      It seems Goldleaf, the supplier I bought from, calls theirs Colophony Rosin (Gum rosin) and they do specifically mention it as an ingredient suitable for wax wraps. That said, I was under the impression that resin is the raw sap, while rosin is the outcome of processing to remove the natural turpentine. But as you say, rosin might indicate other additives. I suppose the best advice is not to use a product that is indicated for woodworking or art unless there is an assurance of food safety.

      Thanks for giving us more insight : )

  22. I used the above recipe with 1/4 cup pine resin (powdered) and found the wraps aren’t tacky enough. What is your recipe again and is it by weight? Also I’m using a slow cooker to melt and dip but have to wait awhile for the pine resin to melt as it does clump. Any help would be appreciated as I want to make a big batch.
    Thank you

    1. Hi Diane, I apologize for the late reply. My recipe uses a 50/50 ratio of wax to resin by weight. I’m not actually sure what each would be by volume, and with beeswax coming in a variety of formats (beads, chunks, solid blocks), I find it most useful to work in weights. It sounds like you could increase the resin proportion, especially if they’re not sticky enough. Good luck : )

  23. Hi:

    So how can I make my wraps sticky enough? 1 cup beeswax with 1/4 cup pine rosin and the oil didn’t seem to do it. The same as the above recipe. Hoping to hear fr9m you soon as I’m already to go and make a batch.


    1. Hi Diane, some commenters have had good results with the same proportions you’ve listed, I’ve generally used more pine rosin relative to beeswax. Check the proportion in the original post for details and I’d imagine they’d come out stickier. Also, I tend to measure by weight, not volume since it’s more accurate.

  24. I tried the recipe with 1 cup beeswax, 1/4 cup resin and the oil. It wasn’t tacky enough. I think I’ll try yours. Is it by weight? Or in a measuring cup? I used a slow cooker and dipped then blotted the wrap. Any advise I’d appreciate as I’m disappointed with the first batch.

  25. Any tips on preventing the wraps from leaving a residue on glassware? I’ve tried with and without pine resin and all leave a waxy residue.

  26. I have been making wraps for some time now, initially having failure, but what works well for me is:
    100g beeswax
    20g resin (i use damar resin)
    1 tablespoon jojoba oil.
    I have a friend who uses this recipe but she replaces sweet almond oil for jojoba oil with success
    I believe Jojoba oil has antibacterial properties so am personally reluctant to substitute
    I also have had the resin clump on one occasion, but just perservered leaving and stirring and it eventually melted in and mixed with the wax. I have always used the powdered resin.
    I melt, then brush onto cotton fabric then place in oven on low for 4 minutes and hang to dry/set. I usually find that once wraps are rinsed off (in warm mild detergent) a couple of times they don’t leave the residue and probably adhere better too.

    1. Hi Rae, glad you got the clump to remelt. It’s nice to know it’s possible. Thanks for sharing your formula 🙂

  27. Wow! Thank you all for so much wisdom and experience! I made some wraps with just beeswax a month ago, and although usable, they are too stiff and don’t adhere (cling/stick together) nearly as well as the commercial ones. I know I put too much wax on the cloths as well. So, I am going to try it again with the jojba and rosin/resin. I was told in the natural food store that Shea Butter shares properties with jojba so could be used. I am not sure the person was speaking from experience though???
    I live in SW Ontario, Canada, and have pine trees in the yard. Yesterday I chipped away for 1 hour (it is still cold here) and melted my treasure. Unfortunately, the resin clumps were tiny, mostly about the size of 3 peas clumped together, so I only got 1/2 oz for all my work! There were a lot little bark pieces included, so it was quite a procedure! Well, I think I will buy some rosin!
    I should have known, but, I did not wear a mask and did breath in too many fumes…
    As and FYI, I purchases some lovely pieces of organic non-GMO cotton poplin from, just waiting to become wraps.

    1. Wow, you are going above and beyond. I suspect there is quite a bit of purifying that happens between the tree and the end result!

  28. Hey all, if you are in Canada, I found a distributor of Enkaustikos Damar Resin in London, Ontario. They will ship of course, but being close enough to London I can pick it up at the store.
    Talking to the owner of the store, he made beeswax wraps 3 years ago and is still using the same ones! Awesome!!

      1. Hi Clara, not sure where you are in BC, but I was just visiting Vancouver and saw The Soap Dispensary carries it as a refill. BC’s a big place, I know… 😀

  29. Hello, I have been doing my research in finding food grade pine resin. I am Greek and I’m Greece we use resin to make a particular kind of resin-flavoured wine called “retsina” (the clue is in the name!), so my research started from trying to find where the wine makers get their supply from. It is largely from local producers and farmers so you wouldn’t find it online, however I discovered this little company that produces and sells organic food-grade resin worldwide. So I thought I would share:

    1. This is wonderfully helpful Effie. I know there are readers around the world looking for this elusive ingredient that is confirmed as food grade. What does resin-flavoured wine taste like I wonder? Have you tried it?

    2. As I live in Europe, I tried to order from this site, but after a few problems with payment I tried to abort and login from a different browser, and the site told me I was “a spammer, hacker or otherwise bad person” and refused to let me further access the site, haha! XD

      I was so glad to find a good European supplier, and now I have to keep looking…

        1. Thank you, Cindy. Sadly, Essential Living is not a European supplier. Perhaps you are not aware, but shipping from the US to Europe is exorbitant, and then there will be import fees, tax and customs fees on top of that. Plus it will take like a month or more. I really appreciate you taking the time to help me, but I’m afraid I’ll have to keep looking for a European source.

          1. I ordered some organic pinon pine refined resin from and it’s also available from from Jenny joy’s soap. Quite pricey and haven’t used it yet. She has a tutorial for food wraps as well. Hope this helps.

  30. thanks for the tutorial.
    but the entire cotton industry, after hundreds of years, continues to compete for arable lands and is culprit of systematic economic oppression in the developing world.
    there are a variety of natural fibers that are made into thread and fabric for which waxing and resin coating work just as well. convenience and availability are non-factors when goods are readily available online. cotton kills.

    1. I agree, it’s important to know that cotton is a thirsty crop, both for water and pesticides. That’s why we need to reuse our beeswax wraps in use as long as possible, and upcycle or choose organic fabrics whenever possible. What other fibres have you come across that work well?

  31. Hello, could you please tell me if you have made VEGAN wraps and if you have, what did you use instead of beeswax. I have many vegans in the family and would like to gift them some wraps also. Thank you. Tricia

    1. brains trust – any experience with vegan waxes? I haven’t tried myself, but candelilla is a vegan wax with similar properties to beeswax.

        1. Hi Kerrie, I can’t see why candellila wouldn’t work as a replacement for the beeswax. If anyone tries this, let us know how it goes.

    1. Hi Anga,

      I agree that beeswax only wraps are great, however, I don’t think using rosin is going to lead to ‘ingestion of large quantities’ as the link suggests. Also, there is no need to heat to 200 degrees celsius. Happy waxing, whichever method you choose.


  32. Hello
    Thanks for this font of invaluable information. I am a wrap novice on the eve of her first bake (assuming I can source pinking shears tomorow morning). On the weekend I spoke with a market stall holder who is an apiarist. She urged using 80% wax and 20% coconut oil. Her wraps looked great, but living with them is the thing, eh? I plan to use 80% wax and 20% jojoba oil (because I have bought it) – she said there is no need for roisin if you use oil. I will try resin if I’m not happy but I’ll let you know how it goes, and will try some coconut oil and wax ones as well before venturing to resin/wax/oil. I’d rather avoid a ‘meltdown” 🙂

    1. Hi Anne-how did you go with the wax and jojoba or coconut oil? I am about to try it all out and I was looking for an alternative to Pine Rosin as it is so hard to find in Western Australia.

  33. Hello
    Thanks for this font of invaluable information. I am a wrap novice on the eve of her first bake (assuming I can source pinking shears tomorow morning). On the weekend I spoke with a market stall holder who is an apiarist. She urged using 80% wax and 20% coconut oil. Her wraps looked great, but living with them is the thing, eh? I plan to use 80% wax and 20% jojoba oil (because I have bought it) – she said there is no need for roisin if you use oil. I will try resin if I’m not happy but I’ll let you know how it goes, and will try some coconut oil and wax ones as well before venturing to resin/wax/oil. I’d rather avoid a ‘meltdown” 🙂

  34. I am wondering if Myrrh Gum Resin would work. I was checking to see if my go-to company had pine resin and they didn’t. But they did have Myrrh Gum Resin and it looks to be similar. I am probably going to try it and update…it might be an option!

  35. Hi,

    I was wondering where you got the fabrics you use!? I particularly love the ones you use in the fourth and fifth pictures (the blue with gold flowers and the red/beige/green one.


    1. Hi Jenny,

      Those are two of my favourites as well! The fabric in the fourth pic probably came from Spotlight. I really had no idea where to get fabric when I first started. There are many shops in the inner west if you’re also in Sydney where there is more organic cotton to choose from. The fabric in the fifth pic is a Frida Kahlo print. I acquired it from my boss, who’d had an offcut from making pillow cases or something. I convinced her I needed it. It’s a funny long shape, but so useful and the pattern makes me smile. One of my best friends used to dress up as convincing Frida for Halloween and it reminds me of her.

  36. I’ve also explored a few options. I’ve avoided resin.
    I’ve also avoided the full melt approach.
    I mix 1 drop lemon and 1 drop wild orange essential oil with 1 teaspoon of jojoba into a small spray bottle.
    I spritz the mix across the fabric and then add the grated beeswax as per your first approach.
    Best of many worlds with a lovely smell!
    I’ve also started re-living my first made lot put rebutting them in the oven for a melt and hang.

  37. Hi Liz
    I am just totally confused as I want to make these wax wraps and I’m just not sure how much to use of each I have everything to make them not sure what amount of each to use
    Kind Regards

    1. Hi Johanna,

      Here’s what I’ve been using for one 25cm square cloth – bit of an inexact science though! I used weight measures more often than volume because things that pack lots of air, like grated wax are more accurate by weight.

      40g beeswax
      40g pine rosin
      10g jojoba oil

      Good luck!

  38. I just wanted to add my thanks for a great article and all the comments!!
    I’ve made 3 batches now, using the Goldleaf Colophony Rosin and Jojoba oil. A ration of 100g beeswax (chunks from a local beekeeper), 80g crushed chunks of Rosin & a good tsp of jojoba oil, combined in a glass jar in a saucepan of hot water melts well.
    I’ve tried both the ‘iron between baking paper layers’ and the ‘paintbrush on baking tray in oven’ methods and the paintbrush is by far the less messy!
    I like 25x25cm wraps and this makes 10 comfortably.

  39. Hi this is such a great and informative post, especially because of the comments section.

    I was wondering is there anyone from the UK that can recommend a safe Pine Resin source in the UK please?

    TIA 🙂

  40. My homemade beeswax wraps dry out after one use really quickly. I had been using the same amount of beeswax as pine rosin with coconut oil. Just wondering what I am doing wrong?

    1. Hi Vanessa, are they cracking when you use them?That can happen when you have too much coating on the fabric.

  41. Does anyone know if it’s posdible to make beeswax wraps without using an oven? A team and I are planning on running some lunchtime workshops at my workplace to encourage people to use less plastic. I’d like to run a beeswax wrap workshop but we won’t be able to use an oven. Can you just pre-melt the wax/resin/oil mixture and then paint it on the fabric to get the same result? Or is the oven step essential?

    1. Hi Tiffany, what a cool thing to do at work. I know that some people place the fabric and wax between two sheets of parchment and use an iron to heat the wax to make it spread. You could definitely premix the ingredients and paint them onto the fabric, then follow with the iron to make sure it’s evenly distributed. Good luck and let us know how you go.

  42. Hi there! I’ve been doing these to sell at my farmers market, and moved away from the oven a long time ago. I use a crockpot, and dip. Hope this helps. You can get liners for a crockpot so you don’t ruin yours, but mine has been donated to this project.

    1. Thanks Linda, it’s great to hear from a pro – does it take long to melt the wax in a slow cooker?

  43. Hi Liz! The only reason i’m a pro is because I found some answers here!
    They love this at my farmers market and its a nice side hobby for me .
    It takes about two hours to melt two-three pounds of the wax in the crock pot.

    1. Can u give a blow by blow of how long you dip and hang for? Also where u buy the pot protection liners?

    2. Hi Linda,
      I would love to hear the steps on how you make your wraps. I have been melting the mixture using the double boiler method & then the ironing method. But I can’t work out how you dip & use the crockpot. As I sell at markets as well I am trying to make the process as stream lined as posssible – and this sounds brilliant. Can you please let me know?
      I live in Australia and haven’t heard about liners for crockpots?
      Thanks so much

  44. I just tried this and somehow my wraps are extremely tacky, not stiff like commercial ones, but soft yet doesn’t stick to itself on the side that was “up” when in the oven. Anyone have tips on how to correct?

    I used:
    4 oz beeswax
    2 oz resin
    2 T jojoba oil
    I suspect i used too much oil….

    1. Hi Christina, I think you’re right – sounds like too much oil in proportion to the other ingredients. I’d try washng it a few times with soap to see if that’d remove some of the excess oil.

      1. Thanks for your quick reply Liz. I successfully made 20 wraps on a Parisian themed fabric to wrap French macarons for my sister’s bridal shower this weekend. I ended up doing:
        100g beeswax
        25 g pine resin
        2 tsp jojoba oil

        I found using a silicone baking mat made the process super easy. With parchment paper, I felt I was wasting a lot of paper (because I tried 5-6 different recipes/ratios till I found what I liked) and the wraps would cool before I could finish peeling it off leading to a rough unfinished looking backside to the wraps. The baking mats stayed warm so I could peel off the wrap, wave it a bit, put it on cooling rack, and then wipe off any excess with the next piece of fabric before painting on more wax. Hope that helps someone!

        1. What a gorgeous sounding spread.

          Thanks for sharing your method and the amount of ingredients you used – what were the dimensions of the wraps you made?

          I will have to try on my silicone mat one day when my parchment sheets give out.

          1. Approx 10”x12” I did have to mix up two batches to get to 20 wraps and a few extras for the bride (one 14”x16” and two small 6” squares)

  45. Clara, would you be able to share the distributor of the resin? I am in south western Ontario near London as well. Thanks

  46. Hi, I’m from Colombia , just starting. I’m Wondering if someone has used other fabric different , because in my country is hard to found 100% cotton fabric (and if is organic forget it!)

    Thanks, and greetings from South America

  47. Wow I have just spent the last hour reading everything!
    Now to have a go !!
    Thanks to everyone for sharing their information

  48. Hi Everyone,
    I’ve read through all of the posts and I am still reluctant to want to use the resin and sell them as I have read that the resin isn’t really good for you and with coming into contact with food. Has anyone made them with just the beeswax and jojoba oil and been happy with them and their stickiness? Is it a waste of time not using the resin for the clingy attribute that it provides? I live in Alberta, Canada and don’t know where to order the resin if I were to go that way. Any suggestions? Does anyone know what good prices and sizes to sell them at for the Farmer’s Markets? Thank you kindly.

    1. Hey Sharon,

      I’ve been doing some research into where to source Resin in Canada (I’m in Ottawa) and came across this place in Quebec.
      The listing states: As per U.S. Code of Federal Regulation (Title 21); our Rosin Resin is safe to be in contact with food, for food wrapping and packaging.

      Hope this helps!

      I am hoping to try these with my kids this week.

      1. Thank you so much Jess. I went on to their website and found out that they also sell the Damar Resin which I heard was better than the Pine Resin. However, their site doesn’t specify whether they are food grade safe or not so I have contacted them and am waiting for a response. Either way, I will order something from them as it saves on shipping, duty, taxes, exchange rates and will be much cheaper in the end.

  49. This has been a super helpful thread & post. I just finished 3 batches tonight, and molded them using a silicon muffin mold. I was using three different proportions, I will let you know which ones turn out best after I make the wraps. I bought my resin from Evofinition in Quebec. Each batch had at least some resin that refused to dissolve – about 10%-15% or so. I was using a large tomato can in a pot of boiling water. There was a point where it seemed to dissolve, but then it clarified a bit, and I could see a lump of taffy like resin, just stirring around the bottom, but never mixing in. I’m not sure if the temp was too hot, or not hot enough. But i thought that double boiler doesn’t reach really really high temperatures, and I didn’t think to stick the candy thermometer in the boiling water.

      1. Hi! I did. The one I found works the best is about 100g wax, to about 60-75g resin. If my wax isn’t hot enough, or if my resin isn’t a fine enough powder, then I end up with some undissolved resin – so thats why the lack of accuracy. I use about 25-30ml of Fractionated Coconut oil & jojoba oil mix. Sorry, I just saw this reply just now, while reading this post again.

  50. If the tree is a true pine (some trees are labeled as “pine” but are not)–again, if the tree is a true pine, then many parts can be consumed in some way by humans. Pine seeds (called pine nuts) are edible, the inner bark and roots are edible, tea can be made from pine needles, pine pollen is a thickener in soups and stews, and Native Americans chewed the resin like gum and ate it, ostensibly for its antibacterial properties.

    1. Thanks B. Come to think of it. I’ve sampled some pine needle tea before. What an incredible tree. It also smells amazing.

  51. I have been making wraps for a while now and have been selling at my market and in some shops. along with my bee related products. I have tried many recipes and there are lots, some have been too oily and some too waxy. I keep bees and use bee themed fabrics. The wax ones dont stick and crack and the oily ones are just slimy and still dont stick. I must have changed my recipe along the way, I have a small sample for people to try and that is not tacky but sticks well, they love it and then buy a set ( I just cant keep up). I had someone return some because it was not sticky enough so I am looking at recipes again. I did check hers against my original sample and the new one was very dry and did not stick. I melt my wax in a double boiler then add the jojoba oil and resin. when melted I brush on the fabric, I use an old roasting pan just for this purpose. I then iron between two pieces of lunch wrap. I gave up on the oven method because I burnt too many pieces of fabric. I have an iron and ironing board that are used just for this. I also have a coffee grinder that is used just for pulverising the pine resin. I do go through a lot of lunch wrap but we use those as fire starters. The ironing is messy and you have to becareful you wipe up the wax that comes out. it sometimes gets a black tinge on the top piece of paper so you have to ensure you dont accidently wipe this onto the fabric. I am looking for ways to streamline what I do and make it more cost effective. There is a lot of wax that comes out and I do try to soak it into other pieces but it is still very messy

    1. Hi, I´m from Colombia and we are in the same path. I´m trying new forms to do the wraps without the mess , for my business. Thanks for the tips, I do believe it´s more easy in the way you do it.

    2. Hi Miriam
      I would like to do this commercially, I am wondering about streamlining it. How many do you make /sell like doing it all by hand is it cost effective etc? If your not real big,I wonder if you know how the big companies do it?
      Thanks Jeanne

  52. The pine rosin we get from amazon from diamond G products is food grade.
    Did you know that here in NE Florida we harvest pine trees for their cellulose? Chances are you ate some pine tree today if you had any storebought item such as ice cream or shaker cheese. I’m surprised its so hard to get.

    I can say this – if your food wraps are turning out OK without it, then skip it! The powdered pine rosin is $20 a pound. Most recipes call foor a half wax/half rosin recipe.

  53. Hi Liz

    I’m making beeswax wraps only using beeswax. When I fold them up the backs show lines where there folded- do I need to put more wax on them. They feel quite stiff. I’m making for friends I just hope they are not disappointed as they aren’t sticky lying cling wrap but I find the mound to what you want.

    1. Hi Moira, anytime I’ve had cracking, it’s been from too much rather than too little wax. The idea is to infuse a bit of wax into the fabric, not so much coat the fabric with a layer of wax. If you’ve gone too far, try heating the over-waxed fabric again with another piece of fabric on top to soak up some of the excess.

  54. Hi. I am trying to repurpose new fabric offcuts into these beeswax wraps. It is 70% organic cotton and 30% recycled polyester. My understanding after some research is that oven cooking of the wraps won’t heat the poly enough to melt it into the wax. The melting point for the poly is over 240degrees Celsius. Would love your comments and thoughts.

    1. Hi Annie, good question. I would think that proportion of synthetic would be okay, given that you’d be able to iron that fabric on low heat at least.

  55. Hi Liz! Thank you for your post! I was wondering if Mastic (a plant resin from the Mastic tree) could be used instead as mastic is readily chewed as gum in the Middle East. Maybe Caridwen could also shed some light into this matter?

    1. Hi Salwa,

      I’m not sure – seems worthy of an experiment if you can test a small amount. Clearly food safe if it’s used for chewing gum : )

  56. Good on you Annie! What are you making with the other parts of the cotton? I’d be interested to know how it goes too, with the blend. I have bought patches from Big W that state ‘pure cotton.’ on some, and blend on others – they seem to be randomly labeled though. All I have used have worked okay but I only bought the ones that were labeled cotton. But the others looked the same so who knows…they all worked well with pure beeswax. I have given up on blending with coconut or jojoba as without the resin I don’t think there is any benefit. I will eventually try with resin but, you know, time!
    Loving wrapping. Have made so many I am happy to see them left at my boy’s friends’ places after taking snacks. This may wear thin.

  57. Hi Liz,

    Thanks for the tutorial. Yours was by far the easiest and most sensible to follow. I’ve just started making beeswax wraps and we love them. I have only been using beeswax and they are great. I’m wondering what the jojoba oil does? I know the pine resin makes them more tacky but I can’t seem to find any information about the jojoba oil. I would greatly appreciate any ideas you may have.

    1. Hi Georgie,

      Thanks for the feedback, glad you found it useful.

      The oil, whether jojoba or another, adds pliability to the coating. The wax and rosin are both fairly hard substances at room temp, so adding the oil creates a softer overall ‘balm’ for the fabric. The addition of the small amount of oil should help Reduce the likelihood of cracking.

  58. Hey!
    I’ve made Beeswax Wraps with Beeswax only and was wondering if you can add the Resin and Jojoba Oil to an already made Beeswax Wrap? I thought about sprinkling the resin on it, then iron it. After that I would add the Jojoba Oil and iron it again. Do you think that would work? Thanks

    1. I’d wait until the beeswax wears of in time. I’ve tried something similar, without good results as the 3 materials don’t have a chance to mix properly.

  59. Hi,
    My tree rosin got black and started burning when I heated the mixture of beeswax and tree rosin onto the stove. I ended up melted beeswax and burned black colored tree rosin solid pieces (unmelted).

    I need advice how can we melt tree resins properly?

      1. I am using simple Stainless steel pot to directly heat it to melt, isn’t it enough? Why do we need double boiler?

        1. Hi Mohsin,

          The double boiler helps to prevent overheating, burning or separating. You’ll have much more control with this method. Have a look at the picture in the post to see how the metal bowl sits over the pot with water. Good luck : )

          1. I am using “tragacanth gum” instead of “pine rosin gum”. I think tragacanth gum does not melt as good as pine rosin, any idea?

  60. I just used beeswax spread over my fabric with a paint brush. They seems absolutely perfect to me. I won’t be bothering with the rosin as I’ve read various articles about the toxicity of it. The wraps work fine with it.

  61. Hi guys, Have been reading and reading and searching links to starting this project. I live near Bath, England, UK. I have now purchased fabric, beeswax pellets, Damar Gum crystals (, & 233 Jojoba Golden (Naissance), all on Amazon uk. BUT, not sure which method or ratio to follow. HELP!

  62. Really interesting to read all the comments here. Thanks Maria for the Justingredients tip, I’ve just ordered some pine resin from them much cheaper than where I got some before. I have had the same problem as a lot of people with the resin melting but then lumping up again. I think some of it does manage to combine with the beeswax and jojoba oil though as the wraps are definitely tackier than with just wax. The method I have used is to melt all the ingredients together in a double boiler (heat resistant jug within a saucepan of water!), pour in to small containers (recycled plastic pots), leave to set, pop them out and grate over the fabric. I have been ironing to melt but think next time I will try the oven method.

    1. Thanks for your comment Sharon. I quite like this method of creating small pucks of the combined mixture, now that Ive tried it this way myself.

  63. Thanks so much for sharing all of your knowledge everyone! I melted the ingredients together using the original recipe. The damar resin did glob up into a ball but I just increased the heat under the double boiler and kept stirring for about 30 minutes and it eventually melted together. We had the best result when we brushed the wax on with a paint brush and then put the sheet in the oven at 200 for about 5 minutes. Once we took it out we scraped it with a spatula to remove any excess but it was far better to put less wax on and add a bit more in any area that needed it.
    We found that if you put too much on it would result in a very sticky wrap. Maybe one that would leave residue on the glass. I haven’t tried them on a bowl yet. Be sure to use good quality cotton, some fabrics are hard to work with and lose their shape when you put the wax on. All in all we had lots of fun and made some great wraps! Thank you for the wonderful information!

  64. I am new to beeswax wrapping, I read in the comments about dipping the fabric in the wax mixture is there a technique to this?. I make my own beeswax and Soy/coconut blend candles and having quite a few vegans in the family I’m keen to try the vegan wraps…once I’ve mastered the beeswax wraps.?
    Great information and easy to understand. Thank you ?

    1. Glad you liked it.

      I will defer to anyone else who can better answer your dipping question. When I’ve dipped,I’ve found I’ve overdone the coating and had to mop it up with a second piece to soak excess mixture (which still works, as long as you have another piece of fabric at the ready).

  65. Fantastic blog post ! I read this last night, and again today. I will be attempting a beeswax :Damar resin 4:1 with Jojoba I’ve decided!
    I have several old , Divine! Scraps of fabric, including a purple faded Malaysian saroong of my mother in laws. This is the fabric that is inspiring me to make beeswax wraps rather than buy them.
    Thoughts: I wonder if the resin in a 1:1 ratio makes the beeswax go a lot further? Those that have done that kinda ratio mention a huge coverage of cloth. Just a thought.
    Also variations in recipe results ( ie melting of resin) may be simply related to season temp & humidity variablities. Being in Sydney myself, we get an insane variation of humidity and temp through the year.
    I am also super excited about making it as a premix in a silicon mould. Where would you store it so it wouldn’t melt in the 43degree heat this coming summer? Or it will stay solid at room temp?

    1. Hi Mary-anne,

      The sarongs sound great. I love vintage fabrics. And all great questions. The pre-mixture will stay solid at 43 degrees. I’ve been storing mine still in the molds in a box with my other supplies, but any old container would do.

      Most people have a harder time finding the pine rosin, but I suppose it’s cheaper per kilo to use more of it! Never thought about it as a beeswax extender. Good thing they are both renewable resources. Let us know how you go with the ratio you have in mind.


  66. This is by far the best post and comment thread about this process I have found! So many different options and recipes weighed against each other. Can’t wait to order supplies and get to experimenting!

  67. I wonder if you could use other fabrics? I would like to try silk. I have some of my grandmothers silk fabric that isn’t enough to do much with, but are perfect sizes to make a wrap or two.

  68. Hey there! Great post!
    I just tried to make some wraps and I wasn’t too successful. I tried the iron technique (since I didn’t buy any old pots and cooking sheets to ruin- yet)
    and I’m wondering if my failure has anything to do with using wax paper instead of parchment? My cotton squares just seem a little more firm, but definitely not as effective as the ones I’ve bought… Additionally, I used filtered (white) beeswax so that it didn’t stain my fabric yellow… any thoughts on filtered vs. Unrefined?

    Thanks so much! Great blog!! 🙂

    1. Hi Danielle,

      I’ve never tried with wax paper, but it does have it’s own waxy coating, so I’d be wary of it to replace parchment. I think the effectiveness of the wax would be the same whether filtered or unfiltered. Is your fabric the same thickness as the storebought versions? If the fabric is too think it may also turn out less malleable.


  69. Hi. I made a lot of beeswax wraps with only beeswax, nothing else. I sprinkled pellets on to my cut fabric, which was sandwiched in between greaseproof paper & ironed over them. The heat was enough to melt the pellets & be absorbed by the fabric. They are fine but lack that extra bit of tackyness that I have in the ones I bought online.

    My question is if I mix the 3 ingredients together in advance & do the silicon mould trick, can i then take the ‘bars’ of mixture & grate them on to fabric & use the iron method instead of the drizzle & paint technique? The ironing seems less messy.

    Can the pre melted wax mixture be grated?

    Thanks for the article, it’s great to read the Q&As.

    1. Hi Suzanne, you bet they will grate. The mixture bars are a similar texture to a block of beeswax, but slightly tackier and softer. Definitely can be grated. You could also grate and melt in the oven or iron – whichever suits.

    1. Coconut Oil is much cheaper than Jojoba – BUT – after a short while it gives out this rancid smell which is not pleasant – especially if you are using the wraps for food!

    2. I use fractionated coconut oil. It’s often used as a hair & body product, massage oil and carrier for essential oils. It’s got a VERY long (nearly indefinite) shelf life, which means it won’t go rancid – similar to Jojoba, and is significantly cheaper as well.

  70. Hello!
    Thank you for your recipe! I did more or less same proporion but the wraps are sticky to hands, after using it I need to wash my hands and it is not easy to wash it off… Maybe I put too much rosin?

    1. Hi Elena, I wonder if you have too much of the mixture on the wrap? I have not had that problem before. One way to remedy this is to get another sheet of fabric and lay it over the overly coated one and reheat. The dry fabric will absorb excess (and then you will have two). Hope that helps.

  71. Hey there Bee Wrappers!

    I have made a few batches of wraps so far, trying to find the right recipe that works best. I want them tacky, but obviously not too tacky. I recently made a batch that I thought was perfect but was concerned about the tacky feeling that was left on my fingers when handling the wrap. The tackiness disappeared within a 30secs to a minute which I didn’t mind but some others didn’t like it, but the consistency of the wrap was so good! I made another batch with a little less pine rosin and now the wrap isn’t tacky at all. Is it normal to have a slight tacky residue left on your hands with a freshly made wrap? I’m assuming the more it’s used and washed the tackiness will become more subtle.


    1. I’ve had that happen when I’ve coated my wraps with too much mixture. What were the proportions you used in both cases? Many of us seem to be after the perfect ratio, which seems to be somewhere between 3:1 wax to rosin to 1:1 wax to rosin.

  72. For those using metric I found 100g of beeswax, 5 g resin/rosin & 1 tsp of jojoba oil to be a good mix. I needed very little resin.
    Also the resin has a much higher melting point than the wax. I used an old pot directly on the cooker ring. (Not a pot in a pot of boiling water.) They wax melts firsts, a weird blob is formed and then eventually it all melts equally to liquid.
    It took some trial and error. Melted a lot of the above recipe then saved it in silicone moulds for future use.

  73. Hi Liz, thanks for your help with the wraps. I made some today using the 40 x 40x 10 ratio and they weren’t quite as tacky as I would have liked. However will try again. I bought a second hand electric frypan and used that. Just needed to be very aware of the temperature and turned it off if I thought it was getting too hot. I had no trouble melting the rosin (big chunks too) like this and the good thing – I don’t have to clean out the frypan!! Woo hoo win!! Whatever residue is in the frypan will just be melted when I make more.

    1. Thanks for sharing Paula. It’s interesting that some are finding they can get the tackiness from much less rosin, and some are still looking for more. I wonder if it’s down to variability in the natural material? Good find on the frypan 🙂

  74. I love this site and have learned so much from you all, with so much to go and experiment with. Blown away that I can reuse my folded away, years old worn out dresses and skirts and enjoy them again forever and ever!

  75. I love that we all love beeswax wraps. These wraps have changed the way our kitchen works with about 20 circles, squares and rectangular wraps in all sizes in constant use. I even made one specifically for my large lasagne tray. I’ve been making them for a few years now – 80 for Xmas presents last year. My kids sandwich wraps have lasted over a year with everyday use. I have even found a wrap in the bottom of my son’s schoolbag containing a shrivelled sandwich that had been there for weeks. It was not mouldy at all so I simply washed and rinsed it and it was back in rotation.
    I use the burrito technique where I sprinkle grated beeswax over the piece of cloth then use a shaker to sprinkle the rosin that I grind in a granite mortar and pestle that I have set aside for rosin grinding only. I then dribble jojoba oil over the wax/rosin mixture and roll up the cloth like a burrito. I cook on a low heat in the oven for five minutes and check to make sure the wax and rosin is melted and turn if necessary with metal tongs. After another couple of minutes I remove and unwrap with the tongs, wave in the air and the wrap is done.
    Lots of people where I work have them now and I recently ran a workshop and made them with a group of teacher’s aids.
    I’m looking forward to the day when beeswax food wraps are the standard and clingfilm a thing of the past. Thanks go to all those lovely lady bees, working day in and day out to provide us with such a wonderful product.

    1. Wow, 80 as gifts!! legend!

      Thanks for sharing your burrito method of making the wraps. That sounds like a clever way to do many at a time and save space on the baking tray.

  76. Hello from Maine. I just finished reading every entry and my head is spinning from all of the great information. I’m a total newbie at this; have made only four wraps with just wax using the ironing method (cloth between two sheets of parchment paper. I’m eager to try resin and am awaiting delivery of the powdered form any day. Will pick up some jojoba oil in the next couple of days. The ironing method is so easy I’m curious why most people seem to be doing the melt-and-dip method. Am I missing something? Ironing is so easy and works great (with just wax anyway). When I get my resin powder and oil, will my ironing method work if I simply sprinkle the wax pellets (as I’ve been doing), some resin powder and a few drops of oil (using approximate proportions suggested above)? I’m wondering if the three ingredients will incorporate as I iron and the wax melts. Thoughts? Thanks everyone. This truly is the best informational site I’ve found.

    1. Good question Gail. Sue who recently commented shared a method like this where she sprinkles the component powders, pellets and oils individually and sounds like it works really well.

  77. I’m wondering about the problem some are having with resin forming “globs” during the melting process: could moisture be the problem? You know, like when you melt chocolate and it will clump up if any water makes it’s way into the pan. I read (somewhere, don’t recall where) that some resin comes packaged with desiccant (moisture absorbing packets). Perhaps the globbing of resin is in some way due to moisture contamination.

  78. Glad I found this blog; great comments and useful information. I have been toying with making beeswax wraps for myself and for gifting to my repurposing fanatic family 🙂 After visiting with a gal at a local bazaar and reading these posts I’ve come to the conclusion that trial and error is essential to finding the formula that results in your expected outcome.
    One area I am still in the dark on is fabric choice. I want to use organic, but since it is less readily available and more expensive than conventional cotton it is taking a bit more planning on my part. Can someone tell me approximately how much fabric is needed for the aforementioned recipe of 640g500g/210g that makes 17 large/17 medium/14 small wraps.

    Also, regarding fabric: someone suggested that lighter weight fabrics, such as lawn, work better.

    Thanks to everyone for taking time to contribute your ideas and experiences. I’m looking forward to making wraps!

    1. Hi Susan,

      While organic is ideal if you can get it, I’d say you’re still doing a great thing using regular cotton for wax wraps. I use mine constantly and many are already years old without wear to the fabric itself (and rewaxing is easy). I’ve heard great things about hemp as a fibre, but that’s probably even more difficult to find. A lightweight, but strong weave fabric is going to best for malleability, but I don’t know much of the lingo of fabric. Wish I did. What is lawn?

      I’m not much help on the fabric quantity as I’m a bit ad hoc when I make or rewax mine. Hopefully some of the pros can weigh in 🙂

  79. I recently spoke with a local artisan at a craft fair and received some great tips. Wanting to get your ideas regarding how you finish your wraps.

    1. She said she has better luck cutting the fabric pieces with regular shears, then pinking the edges after they are cooled. I wonder if the solution would make the pinking shears unusable for other purposes.

    2. Her preferred wraps are round as opposed to square as they are easier to fold, with less bulk.

    3. She likes to sew a button and loop on hers for easy fastening. Don’t know how useful this would be, since they are pretty much self-stick and would be an extra step to the process. Any comments on this? I might try one or two and see how they do.

    4. Her wraps are made with conventional cotton. I’m not as concerned with pesticide/chemical contamination of cotton as it is grown, but more of chemicals used in the treatment of the fabric. Wondering how others prewash non-organic cotton to reduce these residues or is organic the only way to go? I ask only because it substantially increases the cost of the wraps. I agree that using repurposed fabrics is a good alternative, but then you have no idea of the source of the fabric and what contaminants it might contain. Maybe I’m over-thinking this 🙂

    1. I discovered when I used a fabric that I didn’t prewash, that the colour ran for some reason once I applied the mixture …. I prewash now with eco-friendly washing liquid (just incase).

  80. I’ve made 3 batches with 100g wax, 80g colophony rosin from Goldleaf & 1-2 teaspoons Jojoba oil and was reasonably happy with the tackiness and pliability. However they have a gritty feel on the finished surface and I can’t work out why. The mixture is well melted when I brush it on the fabric. I put the wraps in a low temp oven (150 C) for a minute or 2. The wraps I’ve felt at markets are incredibly smooth, not gritty at all. Has anyone else had this problem?

  81. I’m a long-time user of wax wraps, but only just now poised to make the first batch of my own. This post was a perfect learning-ground for my grand plan: to make wraps for all the family for Christmas. I really value your considered feedback to comments, Liz, and your willingness to take up others’ experiences.

    For readers in New Zealand: if you’re hunting for resin/rosin, try . My order arrived promptly and the prices were comfortably within my budget. (For everyone else: sorry, they don’t currently ship internationally.) I bought my pine rosin and, feeling adventurous, also some frankincense resin. I plan to add just a little into my mix (with some local organic wax and jojoba). I will try to remember to post the results!

      1. I remembered to post the outcome! I made about 13-14 wraps (of various sizes) last evening, and refreshed two existing cloths. So much of the above advice came in handy – thank you to Liz and all contributors! (I’ve shared the URL with a couple of workmates who also have Christmas gift plans for handmade wraps…)

        I’m pretty pleased with the results. I went for a 3:1 mix of wax:resin, but think I will do 2:1 next time. They were nice and pliable, and folded well, but weren’t *quite* sticky enough for my liking. I was consistently putting too much on, each time: I found I could heat the next cloth on top of the over-waxed one in the oven, and save myself time both for clearing up the excess, and waxing the next one.

        I also encountered the challenge of some resin chunks not melting. With my double-boiler set-up, it wasn’t feasible to turn the heat up. I made the mistake of taking the lumps out and pounding them – with my stupid-head on, I expected that to help them dissolve, like sugar crystals in water. But that’s not what’s going on in this mix, and I just ended up with a grainy mess at the bottom of the pot!

        My guess is that some chunks melt easier than others because – here’s my non-scientific science reasoning – as resin comes out of the tree, its consistency probably changes as it “heals” the cut. Perhaps, like a mammal’s blood from a cut or scratch, the first stuff will be full of all the normal blood-stuff. But when blood starts to clot, what oozes out of the scratch becomes more plasma and less red-cells-and-stuff. Maybe trees do something similar – but who knows which stage of the “resin clotting” melts easier than the other?! We need a tree scientist on this thread! 🙂

        My tip to offer into the mix: for hanging the cloths to cool, I hooked a little lingerie laundry-hanger from my kitchen cupboard handle. It’s a rectangular frame with about 16 or 18 pegs, spaced just right to dangle 3-4 cloths or more, nice and flat.

        Oh, and the frankincense smelled amazing! (My kitchen is simply heavenly right now.)

  82. Hi there

    Still loving making wraps using your methods and haven’t seen a better source of information than this Australian thread. I have been still investigating Pine Rosin and have stumbled across Copaiba resin. It has been used for many centuries by Mayan people as a medicine. Just wondering if you or anyone else have tried it to replace the line resin? The only information I can find says it has many uses but not to ingest it in large amounts with out dr advice. Any thoughts on this new find?

  83. Love this info/thread! Just made a new big batch using the electric skillet method. Worked some better but still had trouble with the rosin globing up. I didn’t use quite as much rosin as wax. Wish I could fix this problem!
    I bought organic cotton from Monaluna. Great company to work with.
    I’ve often thought about doing round ones but what a waste of fabric! And I can’t imagine how difficult it would be to use the pinking shearers after they’re done. Seems like a lot more trouble/work.
    Now if I could just fix the rosin problem. Sprinkling on separately sounds like a great plan! Onward!!!

  84. 1. When using the “electric skillet method”, are you melting the ingredients directly in the skillet or using another vessel with water in the skillet (like a double boiler)? Direct heat might cause the resin to “glob”.

    I recently made a couple of batches of wraps using beeswax, pine resin, and jojoba oil. Used an insert from a crockpot (purchased at Goodwill) placed in a larger kettle of simmering water. After melting the wax (mine was in block form), I stirred in the resin (purchased as small chunks), using a wooden stick. At first, the resin began to glob, but I kept stirring until it was fully melted and incorporated. Worked just fine. I used a mix of four parts wax to three parts resin and about a tablespoon of jojoba for 1 pound of wax.

    Regarding the pinking shears: I pink mine wraps before dipping, since I didn’t want to wax up my shears. However, I forgot to pink one and pinked it after dipping and the wax had cooled. It actually pinked easier.

  85. Good to know about the pinking shearers! The first time I ever melted in a double boiler it worked beautifully! Since then it just won’t melt no matter what I do. I even bought a new bag of powdered resin thinking it had gone bad. But the new one did the same thing. Just makes a big blob and will not melt. It started melting in the skillet but then began globing up the longer it stayed in there. Argh!!! Onward.

  86. Molly:
    The resin I use is in chunks, not powdered form (as seen in the picture at the beginning of this blog. I purchased from Diamond G Forest Products which is a US company; the resin comes from Georgia, I believe. I know most commenting here are from “Down Under”; don’t know if they ship internationally, however if they do, the cost might be prohibitive. Here is what I do: I purchase the wax in 1# blocks. I put the whole block (1#) in a crock over a pan of moderately boiling water. Once it is fully melted (doesn’t take long) I add the resin chunks (about 12 oz) a bit at a time while stirring the mixture (with a piece of kindling wood). As the resin chunks begin to melt, they get kind of gummy and appear like they might glob up, but I keep stirring and they eventually melt fully. Once the melted resin is fully incorporated with the wax, I stir in a bit of jojoba oil (about 2 Tbsps per # of wax). This seems to be a good mix. I dip my fabric in the hot mixture, taking it out with a metal BBQ skewer, letting it drain as much as it will before hanging to dry. I usually have to touch up the wax after it has dried to remove wax where it has dripped and or pooled in the fabric. I do this by ironing it between two pieces of brown paper bag. I tried using fabric to absorb the excess wax, but this method soaked up too much of the solution, leaving the wrap not sticky enough. I need to develop a better method, that doesn’t require the ironing, since this is very messy. Note: be sure to use an old iron, not one you will use on your clothes. I have one handed down from my mom. Another thing: I don’t believe the wraps are supposed to stick to food containers, but rather stick to themselves, and thus shaping to the container. At least this is the way mine are working out.

  87. I used a mix of powder and chunks. The powder melted fine. For me it was the chunks that refused – but only some of them. Personally, I suspect each chunk has its own melting point/time – especially if you’re using a mostly unprocessed product.

  88. I’m new at this and making the wraps for myself, as hostess gifts and for family. After watching numerous on-line tutorials and reading this blog (the best!) I settled on the ironing method rather than dipping. I’m using 100% pure white beeswax pellets and 100% pure Georgia Pine Gum Rosin powder. The powder is the consistency of baking flour. When I want to make a couple of sets or a quick odd size as a hostess gift etc., I pick them from my stash of pre-cut three-piece sets, heat the iron to its highest setting, set the fabric on top of a piece of parchment paper, sprinkle with wax and rosin powder, put another piece of parchment on top and iron (from the center outward) until the wax is melted. It couldn’t be easier. No double boiler or special pans, *no rosin clumping (*the rosin seems to incorporate during that process.), no waiting for melted wax to drip off, hardly any mess. I’m still figuring the wax-to-rosin ratio and learning that I don’t seem to need as much wax and a little more rosin. I don’t use the Jojoba oil because I can’t figurer out how to distribute the few drops throughout the cloth and they do come out stiff but the more they’re used and washed the more pliable they become. My cloths may not be like those being sold, but they totally serve the purpose with minimal muss and fuss. Hint for handling the powdered rosin: use latex (or similar) gloves when handling because it becomes tacky from the warmth of your hands and doesn’t wash off. I tried alchohol and a number of other things but in the end pretty much waited until it wore off. I hope my approach is helpful.

  89. Gail McCarthy…I wonder if rubbing your hands with coconut oil would work? I use it for oil based stains and it takes the stain right off my hands! Might be worth a try!

  90. Maybe I’ll try ironing next! The coconut oil really works to get the sticky off! Great tip. Then soap to cut the oil. Perfect.

  91. Okay everyone I’ve made several hundreds of these wraps over the last few years and I’d love to share my lessons learned so you don’t make the same mistakes.
    1. The pine rosin I purchased was from Georgia USA and was powder form. The ONLY way it melted down into the beeswax was to directly heat the beeswax in a pan, get the temperature up to 280 degrees ( I use a point and shoot thermometer) slowly add the pine resin powder and stir until incorporated. Maintain the temp at 305 degrees for 5 minutes. Do not let the mixture get hotter than 350 as you may ignite it. I do all my melting outside away from building or flammable items…better safe than sorry. I pour into a steel bowl to harden. It’s easy to freeze and release from bowl and easier to clean up. Do not pour into old milk cartons because it will stick and be a bear to get off.
    2. I have found that re-melting the mixture in the pan at high temperatures makes it darker(maybe the rosin burns) and less of it will incorporate. I’ve thrown many a batch away experimenting on what works and not.
    3. I freeze the beeswax,rosin,jojoba block after its heated so I can grate it easier. At room temp it’s pretty sticky and globs up. Grating it after chilled will produce smaller pieces that can be spread at a better consistency.
    4. I produce my wraps by placing a cotton piece on a parchment paper, spread the grated beeswax mix on the paper then put another parchment sheet over the top. With an iron on ‘cotten’ setting, I melt the wax into the cotton. It works like a charm. It’s not messy and I don’t need to use the oven.
    5. Be sure to use cotton cloths that will have little white in them. The beeswax and rosin combo will yellow your material. Think about that when you purchase material.
    6. I’ve seen several people say and it’s all over U tube to just spread the wax, dry rosin and jojoba oil on cloth and iron it in or put it in the oven. NOPE doesn’t not work. It may look like it’s good but the rosin in encased in the wax and not melted into it. The first time or so after using it your cloth will have white powdery marks all over it. You MUST get the rosin melted into it. Like I’ve said…I’ve made that mistake before.
    -My mixture is typically 100g beeswax, 65g rosin and 20ml clear jojoba oil. Adjust to your liking.
    – I could NOT EVER get my double boiler to ever get hot enough to melt the rosin (it was always globed up at the bottom) so I direct melt in a pan….outside.

    Good luck…would love to hear feedback

    1. Thank you so much, Barbara. I’ve read most of the comments and decided to do it according to your tips. Can’t wait to try! But first I’ll go collect some tree resin and purify it. I’ll see how that goes, very messy I guess … 🙂
      P. S.: Liz, I’m so thankful for your post and to all of you, wonderful people, for sharing your experiences..

    2. Thank you so much, Barbara. I’ve read most of the comments (thank you, wonderful people and Liz in the first place!) and decided to do it according to your tips. Can’t wait to try! But first I’ll go collect some pine resin and purify it. I’ll see how that goes, very messy I guess … 🙂

  92. To avoid the cost of a good pair of pinking shears, buy a pinking wheel for a rotary cutter. Simple and easier on your hands.

  93. Hi all! Thanks so much for all this information Liz and co.
    For any UK based people looking to find resin and wax, Amazon had organic, sustainable beeswax pellets really cheaply from a company called LiveMoor based in Devon and my pine resin/rosin/colophony I got from a company called Agritrade (also cheap on Amazon) which is food grade.
    I’ve made beeswax ones before but first time tonight trying rosin… once I figure out how to power the chunks! Will give an update on quality.

    1. I bought from Livemoor but the wax smelled so strongly of smoke It was unusable, perhaps for candles but not for anything near food or cosmetics. Livemoor said they had no control of this, as I expect is the same for other bulk manufacturers. Part of it is the smoke used in the hive by beekeepers, part is the processing when the wax can get overprocessed and burn. Wax absorbs all smells and once it is there you can’t get rid of it. I buy locally now, so I can smell it first and be sure I don’t waste my money.

  94. I have read through the comments, and have not come across someone who has used resin from a Rosin Bag designed for sports grip. Does it have anything in it besides resin?
    I tried it with the iron method, using beeswax 2 to 1, and Jojoba oil. They were not sticky at all.

  95. Wow, this is by far the most informative thread for this!

    I’ve held off trying to make my own waxed cloths until I knew more, but today, encouraged by all the great ideas here, I gave it a try. At first I thought I had a bit of a disaster on my hands — or in my melting pot. I had wax and coconut oil in a jar in a water bath over an induction element. The jar overturned into the water and I had a lovely waxy, oily soup. It occurred to me that the oil and wax would stay on the surface, and the water probably wouldn’t hurt the process, so I began by floating my fabric pieces on the surface. It worked beautifully. Then I dropped in some frankincense and heated the mixture again, and this time just dunked the pieces and stirred them around. Again, it worked like a charm, with very even take-up.

    I initially tried to measure accurately but ended up just estimating quantities. I used about 60g grated wax, a good dessertspoon of half-melted coconut oil (temperature here is mid-20 degrees C) and probably 8-10 smallish lumps of frankincense, mostly the size of a pea, though they didn’t all melt. I heated the cloths in the oven at 150C, then spread and expressed the excess wax with a freezer defrosting spatula before they cooled.

    I got 4 x 25cm and 2 x 21cm squares, and wasted almost no wax. The watery residue was tipped out in a corner of the garden with no qualms.

    I can’t get over how much more flexible these are than the hand made ones I’d bought, which are hard and cracked, though just tacky enough to self-adhere, with persuasion. Mine self-adhere at least as well and mould around the object much more easily. The ones with the frankincense may be just a fraction more self-adhering than the plain wax and coconut oil, but there’s not much in it. I’m very happy with all of them. The best part is that they’re all food safe and smell delicately delicious!

    BTW, the bought ones have plain cut edges and the wax seems to stop them fraying.

    I’m extremely grateful for all the tips offered in the original post and the comments. I’ll be interested to see how it goes when it’s Not a disaster.

    1. Hi Becky, I’m not an expert. Best to check with the manufacturer. I’m not sure if they add other materials for resin used for musical instruments.

  96. This is definitely the most informative resource I’ve come across in my mission to create some lovely beeswax wraps. Initially I’m making them for myself, but I’m thinking I might gift or sell them once I’ve figured out the process. I’m in the UK and have been struggling to find pine resin that was definitely food safe. I found this ‘pure pine resin’ on ebay, which directed me to this post & thread. I’ve read through the whole thread & no one has mentioned using resin from the raw (not sure if that’s the right term) product – has anyone used it? I am going to need to strain tbe bits out (I’m thinking warm it & strain through muslin or tights). I’m also wondering about extracting the turpentine element – is it necessary? What’s the best way to do it?
    The other thing I’m wondering about is, how to tell whether a fabric is cotton or a blend? I have lots of fabric that I bought ages ago and I can’t remember what it’s made of!
    Thanks in advance to anyone who might have ideas – am really looking forward to making a start on my wraps!

    1. In the bits of reading I have done, I’m sure it said that it is necessary to remove the turpentine but the fumes are toxic to inhale so you need to do it somewhere very well ventilated. Outdoors? Also the vapours are volatile which are why they are usually distilled. I think there was an Australian post somewhere about the process but unfortunately I didn’t bookmark it… Good luck. (On the whole I think the commercially produced rosin is likely to be purer and therefore safer so I just bought it on ebay uk, I used less than in most recipes and it definitely provided the tackyness needed)

  97. The easiest test for cotton is to snip a scrap off and singe the edge with a match or lighter. Then blow it out, sniff the ash, and feel the burned edge with your fingers. If it’s cotton, it’ll burn very quickly, smell like burned paper, and the ash will be smooth to touch. If there’s acrylic in it, it will burn slightly slower, smell more like chemicals, and the singed edge will ball up into a melted ridge. (Careful, too: acrylic holds the heat for longer, so give it a count of five or so, before you touch it.)

    1. Hi Nicola, my interpretation of food safety in the link you mention is that you wouldn’t want ingest it. And I wouldn’t want to ingest it, but I don’t think you’d eat any more from a wrap than if you applied the oil to your face (as I also do).

  98. I read, somewhere, about the process of clarifying pine resin (pitch) and it sounds like it would be very time consuming,. You should be able to find information by doing an Internet search.

  99. Hi guys, great thread of tips as I’m have just started making my own wraps as well. Thank you so much for it.
    I was wondering if anyone has experience with using white beeswax and white fabric. I have some cotton pieces which are white with colourful objects and would love them to stay white. However I noticed, that when I melt the white beeswax pallets and add the resin in, it almost immediately turns dark yellowish/brown from the resin. Any ideas on what the max temperature should be or if there’s anything else I can do about this?
    Also, for those who use the ironing technique, do you do it on a regular ironing board with the fabric cover on it? I found my parchment paper crumples because it’s not on a hard and flat surface and therefore it leaves my wax layer uneven. Any tips for this method too? Thank you to anyone who could help!

  100. I use the straight beeswax when I am making bags, they do not need to be sticky, I usually put a snap or a small piece of velcro for a closure though. I also include a large colourful rubber band with he bags when I give as gifts. I use resin when I am making wrap “paper”. I do all my work on a 18″x13″ edged cookie sheet. (might be a jelly roll pan?) I put a piece of parchment on the bottom and then the fabric and then another parchment. I then iron it right on the pan which I have placed on the ironing board. I have used this for beeswax/beeswax- resin, I just lightly brush the oil on prior to placing grated wax-resin. I love using the iron because you can push wax where you need it to go, I use a wool setting. As above, if I end up with too much wax I just put another piece of fabric under the first and re-iron. I have found that sometimes it is hard to get a good coat on the edges with out ending up with a bunch of wax spillover so I just fold in the edges and iron where there seems to be excess wax, this works well for both wraps and bags. I should try the paint on method just to see how it works but it seems like it would be messier and the brush must get pretty gunky 🙂

  101. I have used almond oil instead of jojoba and it seems to work fine but I have only just started making these so would be glad to here if there are any reasons why it wouldn’t work!?

    1. Hi Vicky, I think the main thing is to avoid an oil that will go rancid quickly. I’m not an expert in which are best or worst though…

      1. Thanks Liz, Thought I’d do some further research on that.. and seems like Johoba has a particularly long shelf life- 5 years where almond oil has only 1 year . Interestingly olive oil has 2 years so I may use that in future.
        Elsewhere it says adding Vitamin E slows oxidation which causes rancidity. None of the research is on what happens when it is combined with beeswax and resin though so it may not apply! Jojoba seems very expensive and not so easy to get hold of so it may be more economical to ditch the cloths more regularly and stick with olive oil! The function of the oil is to increase flexibility of the beeswax, I believe?

        1. Yes, exactly, the oil adds flexibility since both the wax and the rosin are on the harder side (though in summer here in Sydney they are much softer and one could probably skip the oil and have a reasonably flexible wrap). You only need a teensy amount. I adore jojoba for my skin and only use tiny amounts of it there as well and it lasts for ages. I think you’d be completely fine to try something with a shorter shelf life since with steady use, you’ll want to relax them in 4 – 6 months anyway.

  102. Please note that rosin has a much higher melting point than that of water boiling so that the double boiler method just can’t work! I tried it and tried it until my son pointed out these facts that I hadn’t considered! So now I put all the ingredients in an enameled pan and place directly on the stove. I found that stirring it causes it to cool enough to clump. Leave it to melt on its own. It may take a while, but it does work in the end. Good luck, fellow busy bees.

    1. Hi Carmel, interesting observation, although I have always found the double boiler method to work to melt the rosin, as have many others 😀

  103. Thanks for all the great info on this site… I was checking it out as a friend has given me some homemade wraps and they are quite firm and not tacky… so am using a rubberband for now to seal them on containers. And after all the reading I know to wear them out before attempting a rewaxing! My friend advised to store them rolled to prevent crease marks or cracking and this is working well..
    Thanks Liz for setting up this thread and the Oz info .. cheers from the Sunny Coast, Queensland ..

  104. Hi, thank you for amazing tips. I’d have a question – would bee propolis work instead of the pine resin?
    I’m in Europe and the resin seems to be impossible to find (especially with health check document)

    Thank you very much

    1. Hi Petra, My guess is that it would not work, The pine resin’s purpose is largely to do with making the wraps tacky so that the material sticks to itself. This is why pine resin or “rosin” is used powdered by athletes and in a lump for the bow of a violin. As far as I can see Bee propolis is used for anti bacterial properties – a completely different function. I’m in the UK and was able to get rosin on ebay, have you tried there?
      Good luck,

  105. Thank you for this fascinating website. I have been experimenting with beeswax wraps. I am using damar resin as I have read that it is food grade and therefore possibly safer. I had the same problem as some of you in that the pulverised damar resin just did not melt in a double boiler, either on its own or mixed with the wax and oil – it just stayed in a sticky lump. I looked up the melting point for it which seems to vary between 120ºC and 190ºC depending on whom you consult. As a double boiler will only heat to 100ºC it would seem that this is not enough. I then tried putting my stainless steel pot of wax, resin and oil in the oven and the resin eventually melted to the point it could be mixed at 170º – 175ºC. I wouldn’t like to heat it any more than this for fear of igniting the wax. I think pine resin will melt at a lower temperature so the double boiler method might work with that. Has anyone else tried this? I agree with those who say there are probably a variations in these natural products as people seem to have widely different experiences with them. I am still trying to find the best proportion of resin to wax to produce the right amount of stickiness. I also tried dry brushing or sprinkling the powdered resin onto fabric that I had already coated with the wax and oil mixture, then ironing it between 2 sheets of parchment paper. This produces a usable, tacky wrap but doesn’t look perfect because some of the resin forms shiny patches which give an uneven appearance.


  106. Hi,
    Someone asked earlier about a method that didn’t involve using an oven – I use the sandwich press method. I’ve only done it with beeswax and coconut oil, not the pine resin. You just sprinkle the grated beeswax on the cloth, add a little bit of oil if you wish, fold your fabric to enclose the wax and fit in the sandwich press, and heat for a minute or so until the wax melts through the fabric. Was easy to do and very little mess. My non-resin beeswax wraps do lack the stickiness that I like in ones I have bought. They are more like an oil-cloth, specially in ones where I used more oil (was experimenting with ratios), but they still work super well to cover things either folding around or using an elastic band to secure. Thanks Liz for your original post.

  107. Hi, I’m wondering roughly how much wax people are using when they grate it onto the wraps? I’ve been experimenting making them with my kids at school but find that they feel quite rough compared to the one I bought commercially so I’m not sure if I’m using too much/not enough wax?

    1. Hi Terri, it’s a little inexact when I do it thisbway however sounds like you could Ben using a bit less grated wax if your fabric is coming up rough. I also get roughness if i haven’t melted the wax well enough. When the wax is warm enough it should move more evenly into the fabric

  108. Hi, Great post on the DIY aspects of food wraps. Had to look at my favorite place for jojoba oil –
    Here’s what they say about jojoba oil: “Jojoba oil comes from the beans of a shrub like plant, and it is actually a liquid plant wax. It is bright and golden in color, has a mild odor, and is favored in the carrier oil family because of its advanced molecular stability. It also makes a great scalp cleanser for the hair, and is equally wonderful for the skin because it has absorption properties that are similar to our skins own sebum. Jojoba oil may become cloudy and solidify as the temperature drops. This is a normal process that occurs from the hardening of the fats and waxes, and it will become stable at or around room temperature. Because Jojoba is not an oil but rather a wax, its shelf life and stability is considerably higher then most oils and rancidity is very rarely a concern.”
    Thanks for your post and to everyone for their comments.

  109. Ahhhhhh..! I have an infusion disaster. Not sure if it’s the wax, the pine reason or the jojoba oil and coconut oil. I usually use a very light yellow Wax sourced locally to Walloon Queensland with the reason and oils and haven’t ever had a problem but since trying a darker grey beeswax I have been getting very fine black muck in my mix. I allowed my mix to settle and harden then flip it to reveal the base of the infusion is black. I scrape it off until all is removed. The wax is clean, I double checked it. The beekeeper said his Wax is dark grey because of the grey gum eucalyptus trees in his area of hives. He says the oils or pine reason is conflicting with the eucalyptus tree beeswax, I don’t understand. I have tried others.. a few yellow and another grey beeswax and did not have this problem. I am throwing money away with the amount of reson and oil have wasted . Why do you think or anyone else reading your great page think is happening.?

  110. Sorry I couldn’t read all of the posts but did anyone else find that 1:1 ration of the pine rosin to beeswax made it too sticky. Mine left residue on the glass that I wrapped. What ratio worked best for you? Thanks in advance!

  111. I tried a ratio of 1 rosin to 2 wax (like some other recipes suggest) and it wasn’t sticky enough. (I find myself having to put rubber bands around them, as they don’t hold their shape, or stick at all.) Maybe a happy medium could be more like 2 rosin to 3 wax? I suspect also that, especially if you’re trying to use all-natural products like many of the contributors here, there could be some variation between individual batches. I suppose the only way to be sure is trial-and-error. Good luck – I’d love to hear how you go! (I need to refresh all my cloths soon, and want to get it right this time.)

  112. Hi there! I am frantically copying/pasting all recipes provided here to try one that works best for me. I appreciate all the work done so far and your shared tips to help others. As many mentioned before, I am making these wraps for my family daily use and to gift friends. Eventually, I will bring to our farmers market, that if my two little boys allow me (ha!) I live in British Columbia, Canada (more specifically, Haida Gwaii) and trees are all around me. The most common source of resin locals harvest to make salves, among other things, is from Spruce trees. Nice lady at organic shop even told me where to find a tree patch that she often goes to get it. Any of you heard of Spruce resin for this wraps?

    1. I would love to visit Haida Gwaiii one day. Of course there must be plenty of sources worth all the beautiful trees! I read a book about the famous Golden Spruce and have been fascinated ever since.

  113. Hi, I’m interested in trying to make beeswax wraps, but both pine resin and food grade damar resin from reliable suppliers seem difficult to track down where I am. However, I can get gum arabic, which is also a tree sap commonly used in food, and in fact, is often taken here as a supplement. Has anyone tried making wraps with this? Would love to know! Many thanks in advance!

  114. Hi I was wondering if there is a substitute for the resin at all – could something else be used? Any ideas appreciated.

  115. Hi all
    I made about 25 wraps today using 500g beeswax, 200g resin (I bashed up the rocks into small rocks and powder before adding) and 100ml Jojoba oil. I melted the beeswax gently in an OLD saucepan (do not use a good one) then turned the heat up (maybe 50% heat) and added the resin and jojoba oil and stirred quickly for maybe 5 mins. All melted well. Then I used the paintbrush method to coat a piece of the fabric with the wax mix and then into the oven on greaseproof paper on a baking tray for 60 secs to remelt thr mix and give sn even smooth finish (oven on 120C). Take the tray out and use tongs to quickly pick the fabric up off the tray. Only takes 20sec of air drying for the wax mix to harden on the fabric. I then hung on a clothes horse for a couple of minutes to fully set. It took about 5 mins per wrap for the whole process. They feel and look really good. I prob wont be back here to answer questions but I hope that helps someone out. Cheers Mel

  116. There just must be lots of grades of resin. Dang! I can never get it to melt. Just turns to gooey glop!

  117. I can’t get organic wax. We have a large local wax processing place here that makes sheets for beekeepers but they said their wax isn’t food safe. From here it seems people don’t mind too much about using organic wax … would I really have any concerns using non organic wax? Also, do people find scaling up throws their results off terribly. I go from 25 wax for a couple up to 50g and my results really come out different. Last thing, I have some Beeswrap, mine are much firmer and I prefer it that way for me but, because I guess I have more resin in mine do you think it means the principal of the wraps breathing is compromised so food wont be so fresh? Thanks for your thoughts

    1. Hi Millie,

      The wax I’ve usually bought has been from local co-ops, and I know a few beekeepers that sell theirs, but I’m sure most wax would be fine.

      Over time, the coating will wear out and your wraps will become more breathable. If you are concerned with them being too much, you could do a quick wash under warm. water to melt some of the coating away, or just wrap your food more loosely.

      Interesting about the scale – I haven’t found that myself, but I make these on a hobby scale, and not all the time. Someone who doe a commercial quantity might know better than I.

  118. I’m interested in making theses and found a YouTube video, “Crafty Patti”, where she explains the reason for jojoba oil and the pine resin. Jojoba oil is actually a wax and blends well with the beeswax. Jojoba oil makes the wrap pliable. The pine resin is used for longevity…. to keep beeswax from cracking. It’s a 2:1 ratio of beeswax to resin, with a sprinkling of jojoba oil over the fabric…..and then just iron with fabric placed between parchment paper.

  119. Can I use other oils if I don’t have jojoba? Where do you get your supplies of the materials needed in Australia?

    1. Hi Yvonne,

      I’ve ordered rosin from Goldleaf and some bulk materials from N-essentials, or just from local refill stores in Sydney.

      There are a number of other suggestions from commenters about oils they’ve used, such as fractionated coconut oil instead of jojoba. Some oils, like olive, might better avoided because if they go rancid, they’ll smell a bit. Tbh, I think any oil would do, since the wraps wear out with use and you’ll want to relax them after 6 months anyway.

  120. I just returned from Greece where we went a little overboard on our Mastica purchase. It’s a resin from a tree that is edible (used in Greek Easter Breads and chewing gum) but it’s considered to be a “soft” resin vs pine which I understand is hard. Anyone here tried using this and if so, what would ratio to oil and wax need to be?

  121. Any consideration about the environmental impact of using cotton?
    Growing cotton accounts for 16% of the global insecticide release… more than any other crop.
    Beeswax from China may contain antibiotics such as chloramohenicol… and most US based beekeepers use Big Pest Co artificial pyrethroides to kill the Varroa destructor mites that infest their bees and hives?
    SO… use linen cloth and beeswax from a “natural” beekeeper.
    Food for thought?

    1. Hi David, it’s definitely something to consider. I doubt the wraps fare much better than cling wrap if they are only used for a short time. I re wax mine and expect to keep them for many years to come.

      Hemp would be a great alternative based on what I know about it. Linen with a tight weave would be great. Not sure where to source hemp or linen though.


  122. Hi all. Great site and thanks to Liz!

    A question for Mel. You said that you made 25 wraps. What size were these, as I’d like to try your method.

  123. @David Ledger What an important issue to raise! This sounds like yet another good reason to use organic cotton, if you can find it (and afford it).

  124. About the rosin/resin conundrum…in addition to food-safety concerns, I’d like to report that I had no success at all melting the tree resin powder. It was like a sand coating on the wraps, which is really not desirable. So I washed it off with warm water and dishwashing liquid, let the wraps dry, and then ironed them between parchment sheets. I continued making wraps with just beeswax and jojoba oil, and they are perfect for wrapping sandwiches, cheese, apples for a packed lunch, etc. I don’t use them to cover bowls of leftovers because I use plates or pot lids to do this, which permits stacking them up in my tiny fridge. Thanks to ZeroWasteChef for that idea. Many thanks for the post and all those who have commented. To recap, beeswax wraps without resin/rosin work a treat!!!

  125. Another note, I used old shirts and sheets, all 100% cotton, for my wraps so no new material had to be purchased. Although not organic, the material was upcycled and will not go to a landfill, and since the garments and sheets had been used for years and laundered many, many times, the fabric is lint-free.

  126. Hi Liz,
    Thanks for this great summary of suggestions.
    My first attempt was a success…
    Put too much on at first and had to squeeze it out with a brush…
    I was pre warned about the resin and stired it in scoop by scoop and it dissolved nicely.
    I had clumpy resin(supposed to be powder)

    Tha is again

    1. Hi Molly
      Kinda did what Liz suggested
      Double boiler
      Melted bees wax from ebay
      Added spoon by spoon the resin also form ebay
      And waited between spoons till it dissolved.
      Must have been lucky with my resin?
      And at end added the vitamin e

      Just cut up an old bed sheet and stained it with beets…
      Cool burgundy color, bees wax made it even a bit more darker….

      Good luck

  127. I have a tip for everyone I haven’t seen mentioned in this thread. I make wraps for the local farmers market. I use Camp Ben rosin from Amazon (along with my own beeswax and jojoba oil from Amazon). It all easily melts and incorporates when I put it in a fondue pot at 200*. I just dump at the ingredients in and stir occasionally while I’m cutting. No stovetop or oven melting-easy peasy. If I have leftover wax mixture after covering my wraps I unplug the fondue pot, let it cool to a solid, and put it away until the next time.

    1. Hi Julie, great tips and a good use for the old fondue pot. Where are you based so readers know which Amazon to order from?

  128. I keep swearing I’ll never try to make them again! This looks promising though. Do you use the powdered? Which by the way is currently unavailable and they don’t know when it will be back in stock.

  129. Thanks for this great blog.
    I found my wraps, using beeswax and pine resin at about 1:6 ratio was too sticky. My hands feel very sticky after using them. Is this just something I have to get used to? Did anyone else find their hands are very sticky using their wraps? Or, are they ways I can “blot” them or something to make them less sticky?

  130. I would be interested to hear what ratios work for others: Beeswax:Resin:Jojoba. Especially how much jojoba since it is the most costly ingredient. Also, methods for applying wax. My first attempt I tried the dip method, dipping the fabric in melted wax, letting it drip a bit, then laying it on brown paper bag with another piece of fabric on top, then covering with another piece of brown paper and ironing. This did result in an even coating of wax, but way too messy! The next time I melted wax in a tin can placed in a pan of boiling water then brushed it onto the fabric. They then went into a 300 deg oven for 3-5 min. After removing from the oven, I placed another piece of fabric on top and returned to the oven for a few additional minutes. Gave the top piece a quick brush to distribute the soaked up wax, then hung to dry. This seemed to work well, much less mess, but time will tell when I put the wraps to use. Another tip: I make up a big batch of wax then pour it into ice cube size silicone candy molds. These harden quickly in the freezer and I pop them out and store in a gallon size zip loc bag to be used later. Having the wax mixture prepared in advance seems to make the process of waxing the fabric go quicker and with less mess. Using premade wax cubes, I melt them in a tin can and brush on. Seems to work well. Now if I could just perfect the wax solution ratio.

  131. I posted awhile ago wondering if 95% alcohol would help the resin melt. I tried it and made several batches of successful wraps that I’ve sold and gifted. I “melt” the resin by mixing it with about twice the volume of alcohol and then mixed the resin with the melted wax and jojoba oil. Great tackiness etc. I daren’t try a batch without the alcohol, now! My husband uses the alcohol to melt propolis for his home-made skin cream, so we happen to have it on hand.

    I dip my “vintage” cotton cloths in a crock pot of the melted wax mixture, iron on parchment paper and an ironing board, sometimes absorbing excess wax with another cloth. So far so good.

  132. Hi all, has anyone else has the problem of the colophony pine resin smelling really awful? I followed the recipe ratio’s on this original blog and it was very sticky (unlike my bought ones) and the smell and taste transferred into my daughters sandwhich! She couldn’t eat it and brought it home and it was quite discusting. Any ideas please?

  133. Hi, I read through all of the comments only to find the last comment asked the same question that I have! My newly made wraps smell very strongly from the pine rosin! I used a ratio of 100g beeswax to 35g rosin with 20g jojoba. I used flour sack towels….yeah, not pretty at all!! Also, I dont know why no one else has me toned doing this, but I melted it all in a repurposed pickle jar in the microwave. I just do 1 minute at a time. When melted, I stirred with a fondue fork (which was easy to clean) until all was nicely incorporated. Maybe I put too much on. Does anyone else notice a smell on their wraps? I’m going to try hanging mine outside on the clothesline for a few weeks. Will wash in cold water with a couple drops of dish soap first. Obviously the water doesnt get into the cloth…. I though about letting them soak in water with some vinegar added as vinegar is good for removing odors. I’ll try to get back to update if any of this helps. Thanks for all the helpful tips. Oh yeah, I read somewhere of using peanut butter to help clean up utensils from the mixture of beeswax and pine rosin. Didn’t need it, but thought I’d mention it. Any wax, sticky feeling I had on my hands I just rubbed in and it disappeared quickly! The problem I have is that I have never tried beeswax wraps before so I dont know how they’re suppose to feel, how pliable they’re supposed to be. I wondered if maybe the flour sack towels were too thick. Will maybe cut up old cotton bedsheets next!

    1. Cheryl, my bought wraps had a strong resin smell too. Normally I like that smell but not on food wraps 🙂 I didn’t want it to leave a taste on food so I let them hang outside on the clothesline for a few days, just like you said. It kind of worked, not perfectly though – the smell was greatly reduced but still left a bit of the taste. That was good enough for me so I didn’t bother anymore.
      Unfortunately I’m not familiar with the material of flour sack towels so I can’t help you there …

  134. Hi, maybe you need less pine rosin? In Canada we have a formula with 20 grams pine rosin to 100 grams beeswax beads plus 2 tsp. jojoba oil and that does 4 to 6 10 inch by 10 inch wraps.

  135. I use the ironing method. I have an old one with a very thick base that melts a lot and spreads very well. My difficulty is with oil. I haven’t used jojoba yet. I have coconut butter at home that I melt in a water bath and use in drops.
    Maybe it’s too soft …what do you think? Should I really use jojoba oil or can we replace it? Sesame oil, is it possible?
    Thank you for all this precious information on your blog.

  136. So not wanting to use pine resin, I decided on frankincense gum, which you can get at any Greek orthodox church supplier if all else fails, after all it is burnt as an incense in many churches. I got a couple of bags of it from somewhere…
    So I had difficulty melting it into the beeswax, which I had from a beekeeper, only half cleaned. So I melt and filter the beeswax myself. I had about 150gms wax after breaking off a small chunk. Some of the frankincense melted in but most sat and looked at me, so I dissolved some of it in vodka and poured that in and let the vodka boil off – that worked better! Then I added jojoba oil, which I get quite cheap from the US via iherb – there are several vitamins and things I purchase from there, because Australia is deficient in some things, lol.
    Then I spread that on the cloth fairly evenly, using an old pastry brush, and placed another same size cloth on top and ironed the lot between two pieces of baking paper (on an old wooden board) Perfect amount for two pieces, a touch up or two here and there. I will say, that the frankincense tears that did dissolve in the wax originally left a lot of impurities in the wax, and I have some odd looking brown marks from that. The one dissolved in vodka, the impurities stayed on the bottom of the jar and I poured out the clean stuff, so that seems a better way to me. I had about six various size cloths and there’s plenty wax left for touch ups or more cloths. there was two large mixing bowl size, two dinner bowl covers, two jug covers and a lasagna tray size rectangle. The rectangle I coated half, folded it, and ironed – perfect.
    Hope that helps someone else, if not having any luck!

  137. Ooh! forgot to say that I like the smell of frankincense and it’s edible, so I love the smell, especially combined with beeswax. It’s certainly not strong enough to put me off my food, or transfer to the food, so use your best judgement, I guess!

  138. Hi Liz,

    I know this is an old post because it was the one I used about 3-4 years ago when I first started making wraps. It is a great post and it’s where I jumped from in my journey. I’m not using the 1:1 formula any more though. But, I notice you now have lots of comments on this article. So…

    I’d wondered if you had thought about updating your original post to include some of the important troubleshooting? Or collating some of the information from comments.

    I would like to see you update your formula so it’s done in percentages as well.

    I also think you should add some of the suggestions like the fact that powdered resin is easier to work with.

    Some people have mentioned bashing it in a bag, personally that’s too much effort for me, I use an old coffee grinder to grind my resin.

    After experimenting based from all those years ago when I first tried your formula I like a few others I have experimented with 100s of batches (I’ve made in excess of 2000 wraps since the end of 2017.)

    I have used frankincense in batches, as well as myrrh, soy wax, candelilla Wax, carnauba wax, synthetic wax as well as different oils but I believe jojoba is the best because it’s not actually an oil, it’s a wax ester (the nut contains 50% wax) and because of this i find it best to stick with it as the liquid emollient. It is also beneficial as it’s got antibacterial and antifungal properties. It does have some antioxidant properties. When adding frankincense and myrrh, I add them to pine resin at 5%. Removing 5% from pine resin. Both are purchased from food safe supplier.

    My current formula is:
    52.5% Wax
    34.5% Pine resin (or reduce by 5% and add frankincense or myrrh granules)
    13.0% Jojoba

    I like others have mentioned pre melt mixture then pour and freeze for a couple of hours before popping them out of mould and storing in a sterile container.

    I then grate or break off small bits and put on material in between baking (parchment, to our friends over the pond) sheets and iron. The excess comes off on sides and can be simply rolled into balls for future use.

    1. Hi Natalie,

      Thanks so much for your detailed notes and sharing what’s worked for you. I think the comments on this post are more helpful than the original post 😀 Readers are able to see the different ways commenters have described their process, using whatever ingredients they have available. I’ll definitely give your formula a try the next time I make a batch.

      I hadn’t thought of amending the post mostly because I rarely have a chance to do anything for myself these days, let along blog. Gosh, the days before kids…I had so much time.

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